Queer Food

Telling stories through food one serve at a time
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Andy de Groot uses Trove to research the history of Queer*, Trans* and Gender Diverse people in Canberra and then serves up their stories on cards alongside the dishes they have inspired.  

Andy started working in kitchens at the age of 16. While working as a sous chef at the Melbourne-based Torres Strait Islander-owned and run business, Mabu Mabu, Andy was inspired by how a hospitality business could give back to the community they served. 

‘I saw the positive impact a socially driven hospitality business could have, which inspired me to start one for my community as a transman, Queer Food.'

As Andy explains: 

‘Queer Food is a social enterprise catering company and food retailer run by Trans* and Queer* people that operates on Ngunnawal and Ngambri countries, known as the Canberra Region. Each menu item tells a story about a Trans* or Queer* historical event or highlights the story of a well-known Trans* or Queer* person.’

Andy de Groot and other members of the Queer Food team holding their signage
Andy de Groot and other members of the Queer Food team.

History on a plate 

When speaking to Andy about his research into Canberra’s Queer* and Trans* history, he tells us that Trove was the first place he looked. 

‘I chose to begin my research on Trove because I could access initial resources digitally, and around my busy schedule of working as a sous chef.' 

‘I began general Queer* research on Trove, and later as my focus became narrower, I went through every source available on Trans* and Gender Diverse peoples’ history in Canberra,’ he says. 

‘My first big win on Trove, was learning about ACTing Out, and the research Graham Willet has already done on Queer* history in the ACT.' 

Published in 2020, ACTing OUT: Canberra’s Very Queer History was written by Graham Willet. The book explores the history of LGBTIQA+ people in Canberra. It highlights the key role that the Canberra community has had in LGBTIQA+ activism nationally and locally, while also recognising the ongoing challenges they face. Historical moments covered in the book include the founding of the Homsexual Law Reform in Society in 1969, the marriage equality postal survey and other major law reforms. 

The book was the result of the ACT Government’s Office for LGBTIQA+ Affairs project to record the history of Canberra’s Queer community. The entire book has been made freely available through National eDeposit and can be read in Trove

Cover of Acting Out
Graham Willett, ACTing OUT: Canberra's very queer history (ACT Government, 2020), nla.obj-2357057009 

When approaching his Trove research, Andy used Trove’s categories as a framework to systematically work through all the resources available on Trove. These discoveries provided a foundation for Andy’s research. They led him to discover additional sources of information, connect with others in the community, and share his new-found knowledge. 

After reading ACTing OUT, Andy reached out to Graham Willet and learnt about his role at the Australian Queer Archives. This eventually led to Andy presenting his Queer Food research at the 2024 Australian Queer Histories Conference

Surprising stories 

Trove is full of surprising stories and Andy’s research was no different. When discussing his research Andy says: 

‘I had an idea of the textured history I would find about Queer* and Trans* history in the ACT. However, I was surprised as times about how ACT had led the way to make change for Queer* and Trans* people, with the first Queer* advocacy group in Australia, the Homosexual Law Reform Society beginning in Canberra to a hidden in plain-sight Gay sauna called Clubroom in O’Conner.’ 

Two people holding hands while raising yes vote marriage equality signs in front of parliament house
Sean Davey, Marriage Equality Ambassadors holding up 'Yes' signs in front of Parliament House, Canberra, 7 December 2017, nla.obj-735351644

Andy was also surprised to learn that the first transgender marriage happened in 2001. The marriage took place between a woman and a transgender man named Kevin. The marriage’s validity was disputed by the Attorney-General and taken to the Family Court of Australia. The Court ruled in the couple’s favour, saying that the word “man” in the Marriage Act 1961, ‘included a post-operative female to male transsexual person’. The Court’s Annual Report 2002-2003 is available to read in Trove and provides a brief summary of the Re Kevin (Validity of marriage of transsexual) case. 

‘I’m still learning more about Queer* and Trans* history from across Australia, but I’m grateful that Trove was a base from which I could start my research.'

Andy de Groot and other members of the Queer Food team standing in front of the food truck
Andy de Groot and other members of the Queer Food team.

In addition to plating-up Trans* and Queer* stories through food, Queer Food is giving back to their community through a series of initiatives.  

‘The four main pillars of Queer Food are to share Trans* and Queer* stories through food, host local Queer* community events, improve Trans* and Queer* employment opportunities and to build a fund to go towards improving access to Trans* medical care and to support other Trans* or Queer* ventures,’ Andy says. 

* The use of asterisk is used to show that language might change, and the terms “Trans” and “Queer” may not encompass everyone’s identity or experience. It is inclusively used to refer to everyone in the LGBTIQA+ community even if they don’t identify with these umbrella terms.