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4 corrections, most recently by anonymous - Show corrections

FRENCH LEGENDS OF THE

TABLE.

-.- I

(From the St. James's Bodoet.)

The delights of the table exercise a greater influence than ever upon the mind of the French gourmet at this season of the year,   when the plump partridge and the dainty grouse form one of the chief attractions of the menu. The Parisian papers are, conse-   quently, bristling with culinary matters, and endless recipes are thrust upon the bewil- dered render concerning the manner in which the yibia is best converted into a bonne bouche. Among this host of cookery book literature some curious legends of the table have crept in, some of which, at all events, show that not a few of the great men whose names are household words all over the world have occasionally exerted their ingenuity or genius in order to "create some new and fanciful dainty of the dinner table

(QUAIL A LA TALI I IRANI)

The following, for instance, is Talleyrand's   fanciful and somewhat roundabout way of roasting a quail On a day of " inspiration gourmande at his hotel in the Rue Samt Kloientin, he composed the following recipe

-Take a plump quail, seasoned with truffles,   and made tender by having been put into champagne. You put it carefully inside a young Bresse chicken , then sew up the open- ing, and put dabs of butter all over the chicken Again, you put the chicken inside   a fine Berri turkey, and roast the turkey very carefully before a bright fire. What will be the result ! All the juice of the turkey is ab- sorbed by the fowl, and all the juice of the fowl in its turn by the quail After two hours' roasting, the fowl, which in reality is composed of three fowls, is ready, and you place the steaming trinity upon a dish of line porcelain or chiselled silver Then you pull the chicken out of the turkey, and the quail out of the chicken The quail Î Is it correct to talk of the quail, when this delicious, per fumed dish is indeed too good for any name ' You take the quail as}ou would tako «mc sacred relic and serve it hot, steaming, vv Uli its aroma of truffles, after hnv ing rousted it to a golden yellow by basting it diligently with

the bestGournay butter

llOBBlM AND THE MAOARONr

Macaroni «I la Pesuro, Rossini culled the dish which ho himself invented on the foi lowing ocension In a mortar of Italian maible an exquisite sauce was kept mnde of game extracts and aromatic truffles, carefully mingled and diluted in nn old liqueur It w as a dolectable concoction, faintly flavoured with nutmeg and the juice of oranges Caiefull} placed in a silvei dish, und on a wlnto serviette, were sonic long macaroni tubes Rossini carne in and with his dell

cato artists hand he took up a tiny enamelled syringe, filled it with tho truffle saute, Mid injected some of it into each ^Neapolitan tube lhen tho macaroni was cuietull} put back into a saucepan, like a child is put into its cradle, and the duinty was cooked to per fection nmong intoxicating! v delicious odours And there Rossini remained, mo tionless and bewitched, superintending tho cooking of his favourite dish, listening to the Bott murmur of his macaroni as if he had lent his ear to the captivating Bounds of nn air from the "Divine Coined},

A BIHANGF HAMID. CIIROMCIF

Among othei peculiarities connected w ith the culinary department is mentioned tho fact that in one of the Swiss cantons a curiouB custom has been in \ogin tor cen tunes past M henev er there is a vv aiding among the villagers the friends of the bride and bridegroom present the newly married toupie with nu enormous G raj pre ohecse, made spccinll} for the o< cnsion ThiB cheese becomes an heirloom, and f,oes down from generation to generation, with nil the family events cut into its rind A simple incision is made foi every hirth and baptism, und a cross for every death The straight cuts ure tlio cradles, the crosses the tombstones of

tlie family

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