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NIN E, :GAMBL DEATH TO SE ROOF OF TH DT By SIDNEY RODIN Over the snow-clad slopes of Scotlan cai and twists a 39-year-old civil servant. To his fellow-skiers lhe is one more sportsman enj g hiA

But Campbell Secord, as he slithers through the valleys, will be thinking of the perilous snows and savage winds that are to be his world in the months to come. Soon, with eight other men, he goes east to start final prepara tions for the conquest of Everest. No man has climbed far beyond 28,000ft. In 1924 Irvine and Mal lory reached that height - and disappeared into the mists forever swirling round that last 1,000ft. of formidable black rock. Graves on Everest's jagged face mark the failure of other climbers.

leader of the expedition. He is 44, a diplo mat in the Consular Ser vice and is an Everest vete ran. He has two children. When he re connoitred a new south west approach to Everest last year Shipton took with him:


Campbell Se cord may never get the chance of climbing to the Roof of the World, for not all of the nine will be cho sen to brave the wastes where man has never before set foot.


The Men FOR three months this year the nine men will train before the final assault next year on Everest's five-and-a-half-mile (29,141ft.) peak. They are: ERIC SHIPTON, of Liss, Hants, TOM BOURDILLON, 27-year old married rocket research scien tist from Aylesbury, Bucks; thirty year-old EARLE RIDDIFORD, an unmarried solicitor from New Zea land; and EDMUND HILLARY, a bee farmer. He, too, is unmarried; He, too, comes from New Zea land, A fifth now joins the party: New Zealander GEORGE LOWE, 28 year-old schoolmaster, who has climbed elsewhere in the Hima layas. To these leader Shipton had added four of 50 of Britain's best climbers who answered the Al pine club's call for the assault into the unknown: ROBERT EVANS, 31-year-old surgeon at Walton Hospital, Liver pool, who has climbed in the Hima layas. Evans is ready to give up his job to join the Everest expe dition. RAYMOND COLLEDGE, 29, rayon salesman, of Max Rd., Cov entry. Colledge is single. He has

four times ascended to the it of Mt. Blanc (15,800ft.) wit a guide. ALFRED GREGORY, of a Rd., Blackpool, 38,

managing director of a travel agency. Gregory has scal ed the Matterhorn (14.782ft.) and has climbed in France, Italy and Algeria. He was a major in the Black Watch, and has a wife, and young daughter.

(CI tGoR

CAMPBELL SECORD, 39,1 adian-born economist with the Ministry of Fuel in London, r ried but no children. He - taineered in the Rockies and e Hiinmalayas. The Training THE team will set out on Jainagar, on the Indian er of Nepal. on a two weeks' h to the base of Cho-Oyu, w h soars 26,750ft. into the Him n world. Cho-Oyu is unexplor It has been chosen to test the s h and toughness of the Everest at great heights. For climbing they will 'ar quilted clothing similar to th sued to our troops wintern in r Korea, but it will be much li r, down replacing the finest 1. Everything must be windpr They will camp at high i tudes beneath lightweight ten They will eat lean beef po d ed and mixed with molten fat d currants, chocolate, at least a 7 pound of sugar a day-some en need a pound-and drink m ly very sweet cocoa and soluble f fee. They will climb with n on ropes. The Air OJIOST important innovatit in equipment will be ox en masks adapted from R.A.F, t s. Men can live for a short e at 28,000ft., yet some who ve tried to spend more than 24 rs at 25,000ft. have suffered pa sis and permanent injury to the in and nervous system. Oxygen masks were trie on Everest about 30 years ago ut they failed. The Perils BEYOND 20,000ft. climbers perience extreme lassi de. Their brain clouds. They lo the will to go on. "High altitude throat" bri in tense pain, caused by the col ry wind parching the throat nd causing a nose infection. The terrible wind near the n mit of Everest, measured by ir craft at 110 miles an hour,c kill by itself.

i W'ITH' $E 'THE WOR LD 'iDA I cairngorms there speeds enj g his spare time in the open. he , it The cold is often too intense With a and dry to allow the snow to be come ice at the upper heights. It clings to the rock as powder. It gives the climber no help. Avalanches periodically sweep clown Everest. .. .