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2 corrections, most recently by doug.butler - Show corrections

STUART'S DIARY....

The subjoined portion of Stuart's Diary, which we were compelled to omit on Saturday last, com prises the outward journey from the EoperEiver (alwut lat 14° 471) to Anna's Creek, on the Ade

laide Eiver (about lat 12' 391), and includes a great extent of line well-watered country:— Monday, June ?,0.-Kojier River. Started at 3.10, course west, following the river up, which ffinds about very much from north-west to south, ind at last to south-east, when coining close to where the grass was on fire, finding a good ford, crossed the party to the north-east side. At 15 miles came upon a large reedy swamp, through which the river seemed to flow, and again at 20 miles came upon the river running into the swamp, and coming from the north-north-west. Although travelling a) miles, we have not made more than 10 miles iu a straight line— the general course is west. The country is of the same excellent de scription. We have passed the stony rises on the north side of the river, wltich are covered with grass to their tops. After crossing the river I ascended another of the same kind. To the south are a few hills scattered over the grassy plains, with lines of dark green trees between them, show ing that they are creeks Slowing into the river whose junctions we have been crossing to-day; the same to the south-west, and at west 20' south the distance appears level, with a sin-tie peak just visible. To the north-west seemingly stony hills; to the north the same; to the east I could see nothing, for the smoke conceals from me the country— it is all on fire. Tlie river is still running very rapidly, and as this is a different branch to those previously discovered, I have named it the Rivcr Chambers— after my late lamented friend James Chambers, Esq., whose zeal in the cause of Australian exploration is already well known. A short time before sundown a number of natives were seen approaching the camp; we were imme diately prepared for them. I sent Mr. Kekwick forward tn see what their intentions were— friendly or hostile. I immediately followed. On reaching them, they appeared quite friendly. There were three men, fourlubras, and a number of children. One, an old man, presented a very singular appear ance— his legs about four feet long, and his body in all seven feet high, and so remarkably thin time he appeared to be a perfect shadow. Mr. Kekwick having a fish-hook stuck in his hat, which imme diately caught the tall old fellow's eye, he made signs of its use, and that he would like to possess it. I told Mr. Kekwick to give it to lii.-n, which seemed to please him much. After examining it, he handed it over to a young man, seemingly his son, who was a fat stout fellow, and who was laughing nearly all the time. Tlie other was a middle-aged man of the ordinary height. The women were small, and very ualy. Wind, south east. Lat. 14' -17' '21'. Tuesday, July L— Reedy Swamp, River Cham bers. Before .sunrise the natives again made their appearance. IU in number, with small spears. Seui, Mr. Kekwick to see what they wanted. On his coming up to them, thev.nnt t.w« finmrein their muuiiis, signifying that they wanted more fish-hooks; but we had 110 more to spare. They remained looking at us until the horses were packed and started. After 'Hiring and Frew had brought in the horses, they rode up to where they were. They (the natives) did not tancy being too near the hordes; but having dismounted, it gave them confidence, and they returned again, Thring opened the lips of one of the horses, and showed them his teeth, the appearance of which did not suit their taste. Some of them thoughttlie further off they weie from such weapons the better, and ran oil' the moment they saw them; others re mained, but kept at a lespectiul distance. Thring pulled a handful of grass, ami it amused them much to see the horses eating it. After starting, they followed us for some miles, when Air. Water house observing a new pigeon, shot it. They did not like the report of the gun, went oft', and we saw no more of them. Started at at minutes to ,s, following the river 0:1 a course :W cast of north. After a mile it gradually came round to the south cast, and was a running stream iu that direction. As that course would take me too much out of my road, 1 changed my bearing to a north-west, to an opening between the hills. After passing a num ber of tine ponds, many of them with water in them, came upon a large creek, having long reaches of water iu it, but not running, it winds about it great deal. Its general course to-day has leen west-north-west. The reedy swamp must be a mass of springs, which causes the Roper to run with such velocity. A little after I o'clock camped. The journey to-day has been rough. Having so many small creeks to cross, and the day being ex cessively hot, the horses seem fagged. They have been covered with sweat since shortly after start ing until now: and as some of the drowned horse is not quite dry, I have halted earlier than I in tended. The country gone over to-day is of the same kind— beautiful sui!, covered with gr;iss. We occasionally met with stony hills coming down to the creek, also well-grassed and timbered to their tops. Wind west, with heavy clouds from the south-cast Lat. 1 T 41' :s!) '. Wc'.lti'.'sday, July 2.— West-north-west of Reedy Swamp, River Chambers. Started 20 minutes to 8. Following the river up until 10 o'clock, we kept nearly a north-west course. It then went oil to the south-west; as that would take me too much out of my course, I kept the north-west course-, cros-iing the saddle of broken lulls which we have now got amongst and at 12 again met the river, now coming from thy north, through the lull-. Foil.miug it still, luuiij; ple.ity of water. At a very large wutcriiolo surprised some natives, who ran off at full speed. When the rear of the party was passing their camp, one stout fellow came running up, armed with spears, and loaded with li;h and bags filled with some thing to cat. Mr. Kekwick rode towards him; the native held up a green bough as a Hag pf truce, and patting his heart with his right hand, said ^oniethin^ whicn could not be understood, and pointed in the diiecfjoa we were going; we then bade him good-by, and proceeded on our journey. At 1 o'clock the river suddenly turned to the east, coming from very rough hills of sandstone ami other rocks. At one ami a half miles 011 that Coiuse it was coming from the so'ith of cast which will not do for me. Changed to the north, and got into some terrible rough siony hills with grassy valleys [-i»f ti*/*uM lutt nnt ?? ilriiri nt ii'iltiif* It luiinir ttfiii*

alter 1.0 ClOeu, **'- laic iu cuuuuuwi iiu»ih[: iuu table land, I again changed my course to south cast for the Chambers, and at 5.:f camped at a large watcrhole at the foot of the stony rise, lined with c-.ibluuje (pahi-) trees; the country, although rough, is well «nissikl to the tip ot tao lulls, with an abundance of permanent water in the river. 1 am s.iiry it is coming from the south-east, and have been in hopes it would carry me through this dugrce of latitude. To follow it further is only lusimr, time; I shall, therefore, take to the hills to-morruw. Frew, on coming along, picked up a small turtle alive. Light wind from the south east; heavy clouds from the southwest Latitude 14 :tr :iii'. Thursday, July 3. -River Chambers. Started S.10 o clock ; north-west course. At one and a half miles again struck the river coming from the westnorth west. I/rft it and followed its north-west course, and at another mile again came upon it with plenty of water. Saw four natives, who ran off tin; moment they saw us. Followed the river, the hill coming quite close to it, very steep and rocky, composed of a hard sandstone, occasionally a little ironstone. At nine miles again left the river, finding it was coming too much from the e;istward; crossed the saddle of the two spurs again, came upon a creek, which 1 think is tlie river. Ran it up to the west for about a mile, but no appearance of water; left it, ascended a very rough ru.'gt's! hill. In the creek we have just left there is a deal of limestone. Crossed three more small spurs and small creeks, but not a drop of water. It being now afternoon, and wishing to sec from what direction the river is coming, jl changed to the north-east, but found that I wm still among the rough hills. I then ran east for a short distance and made the river, now quite dry, and having a sandy bed. Followed it up, but saw there was no hopes of water. Turiiel and traced it down to try and find water. Alter following it for three miles came upon a permanent hole of water, a short distance from where we left in the former part of the day. If it would only rain and put some water in the deep dry holes that are in the other creeks crossed to-day I should tlicti be enabled to steer a straight line for the Adelaide. It is very tedious and tiresome having to look for water every day. We have now reached to the top of one of the tributaries of the Chambers. This is apparently the last water. It seems to take its rise in a grassy plain to the cast of this. The valley through which the creek flows is well grasped, but the sides and the tops of the hiils are spinifc.v mixed with grass. All the small valleys arc well grassed. Wind south-east Latitude 14°-ii5U'. Friday, July 4.— Last 'Waterhole in the Oham: hers. Started S.10 o'clock; course north-west. Following up the river to its sources. At four miles ascended a rise which was very rough, composed of sandstone, ironstone, and limestone, with iron stone gravel on the top. Descended on the other side, and at about five miles came upon a nice running stream, but very rough and stony round about it. After crossing several stony rises, in which we had some difficulty in getting our horses over, arrived at a nice broad valley with a creek running through it ; course north-west At a mile it received a large tributary from the east of north, anil the lied seems sandy; mdaluca and gum-trees in it, also the bean-tree. The valley is covered with grass from two to four feet high. There is a ridge of 1 rough sandy stone hills, with occasional ironstone on each side, fiom the direction it was at first taken. I thought 1 was fortunate in meeting with one of the sources of the Alligator or Adelaide River. After following it for live miles, sometimes going west and south, it went through a stony gorge, and seemed to run to the south, which is a great disappointment. 1 ascended one of the hills to see the country, but could sue very little, it being so thickly wooded. To the north is tho appearance of a range running to the east and west that 1 must endeavour to cross to-morrow' if 1 do not rind another creek running to the north west There is one benefit I shall derive from following down this creek a day— it will enable me to round the very rough sandstone range that runs on the north side of tlie creek- It is so rough that I could not take the horses over it Camped at the jiorpe of this creek, which I suppose, from the course it is now taking, to be another tributary of the Chambers. The gorge is impassable for horses, it has a very pretty appearance— immense masses of rock, some thousand of tons in weight, which had fallen from the top of the cliff into the bed of the creek. Mr. Kekwick found a number of new plants, among them a fine climbing fern. Light winds, east. Plenty of permanent water iu the creek, Lat. 14* 25' 8'. Saturday, July 5.— Gorge on another wast branch of 'the River Chambers. Started at 8.15. Course 5° west of north. After travelling two miles over stony rises we ascended a low table land with coarse grass and a little spinifex. At six miles came up a high stony tent-hill, which I ascended and named Mount Shillinglaw. All round are stony hills and grassy valleys. Dip of the country seemingly to the south. There is apparently a continuous range in the distance to the north-west— the Chambers Range. Changed my course to 325°, and at four miles struck another hirge branch comimr from the north-east and run ning apparently south ; plenty of water in it This I named the Waterhouse, in honour of H. W. 'Waterhouse, naturalist to the expedition. Some of the horses are become sq lame on account of the stones they will not he able to travel another day. I liave camped early to havp them shod, for on Monday I intend taking a north-west course to strike the source of the Adelaide. The country on the last course is again of the very best description and well grassed. The hills are stony— but abound with grass, composed of sandstone, ironstone, and occasionally a little limestone. The trees are the same as those on the Eoper. 'wind south-east. Lat 14' 1? 30'. „ Sunday, July 6— The Waterhouse River. Day again very hot There is another branch a short distance off which seems to come from the north west; that I shall follow to-morrow if it continues the same cours I think these creeks we are now  

crossing must be the sources of the Adelaide flow ing towards the dry river seen fcy Mr. Gregory running towards the north-vsst. Wind light ; sky cloudy. Monday, July 7.— Waterhouse River. Started at five minutes to 8 o'clock; course, north-west At four miles the creek is coming from, the west north-east and east ; I therefore left it, crossed two low stony rises, and again struck another creek coming from the north-east with plenty of water. Followed it for a short distance to the west ; found it so boggy and the body of water so large that I could not get the party round the stony hills. Returned about half a mile, and crossed stony rise, and again struck it At eight miles came upon a number of springs coming from the stony rises. Ascended one of the rises, which are not high, and found myself on a sandy tableland, which continued for six miles, having coarse grass and spinifex growing on it Towards the last two miles it again became well grassed. The timber is stringybark— some splendid trees— amongst them gums and a number of pines, also verv fine. The cabbage-palm still growing in the creeks in great numbers, some of lem* very tall, with several branches on the top. The first eight miles was again over a splendid country, and the last three of 'tlie same description. A stony hill being in my course, I proceeded to the top of it from which I had a good view of the country before me. This hill I named after Lieutenant Helpman. At 10' south of west are two remarkable isolated table-hills— Mount Levi and Mount Watts— lxjyond which is the Chambers Range to the north west My view in other directions is obstructed by other hills, but to the west about one and a half miles is seemingly a creek, to which J shall go, and if there is water 1 shall camp. Proceeded and found it a line creek with plenty of water. Followed it about oue mile to the north west when it became dry. There it seems to come from the south. There are a great number of cabbage palms on its banks. I hope it will soon come round to the north-west and continue oa that course. Light winds, variable. Lat. 14' !V 31'. Tuesday, July 8.— Water Creek in Stony Rises. Started, twenty minutes to 8 o'clock; course north-west. Followed the creek a little way, but found it was running too much to the west of my course. Left it and proceeded to the north west, crossing some stony rises, now composed of granite and ironstone, occasionally some hard sandstone. Crossing three small creeks running to the west at six miles, came upon a large one with broad and long sheets of permanent water, coming from the north north-east, and apparently running to the south-west This I have named the Fanny, in honour of Miss Fanny Chambers, eldest daughter of John Chambers, Esii. I11 a small tree on this creek the skull of a very young alligator was found by Mr. Aulil. The trees in this creek are melaluca and gum, with some others. Proceeded across the creek, still going north-west; ascended two stonv rises and got up on low table land with spinifex and cra-*. pausing two stony lills, one on each side of my course. At IS miles, struck the head of a small creek flowing nearly my course; followed it down in search of water— now through a basaltic country. At two miles came upon another large creek, having a running stream to the south of west and coining fiom the north of east Timber, melaluca, palm, and gum, with some of other descriptions. This 1 have named ihis Ka therine, in honour of the second daughter of James Chambers, Esq. The country gone over to-day, although there is a mile or two of light sandy soil, is good; for pasturase purposes; in the valley it is of the finest description. Light winds, variable. Lat. 13° 5S' 30'. Wednesday, July !-.— Kathcrinc. Started at five minutes to 8 o'clock, crossing the Katherine, and proceeded on a north-west course over a basaltic country, splendidly grassed. At live miles I ascended a high hill, which I named Mount Stow, but was disappointed in the view. Westnorth west course^ over a great number of rises thickly timbered with gum. At 20° north of west is a high iluti' point of the range. The country on that bearing does not seem to be so rough. No inure visible but the range to the west and the hill between. Deceiided aud changed my course to the bl un' point At one and a half miles crossed a creek with water in it coming from the north-cast, and running to the south west. At three miles further arrived at the bluff. The basaltic country has now suddenly changed to slate, limestone, sandstone, and a hard white stone. Crossed three stony rises, and got upon a white sandy rise, with large strinjjyb.irk-trees growing upon it; afid there seemingly being a creek at the foot of it, from rlie number of green gums and palm-trees, I went down to it and found it to he springy ground, now quite dry, although the grass was quite green. I'ruceedcd on the westerly course, expecting to meet with a creek; found none, but large springs coming from sandy rises. Having found water at 13 miles, and being so very unwell that I cannot pro ceed, I have been compelled to camp. There is all immense quantity of water coming from these springs; the soil round them is of the Lest deep black alluvial. About a mile to the west is a strong stream running to the south-west from them. I have called them Kekwick Springs, hi honour of my chief olliccr. Wind light and variable. Lat. IX 51' 12'. Thursday, July 10. — Kekwick's larsc group of springs. Started at 8 o'clock-. Crossed the springs without getting any of the horses bogged. P10 cccded 011 a north-west course, but at a liiilo and a half iKpiiii came upon spring and miming water; the ground to-- liog£V to twss it. Chauged to north; at :i| miles on the course changed to north west. Ascended some very rough stony hills, and got on top of sandy tableland thick with splendid stringybark, pines, and other trees and shrills, amongst which, for tho first time, we have seen the fan-palm, some of them sruwinu upwards of

iij ii'ut io^ii, iiic iiuik un uie aiem i- luarhcu similar to a pineapple; the leaf very much re semMcs a lady's fan set on a long handle, aud after being cut a short time closes in the same manner. At haif-p:wt 1 crossed the tableland ; breadth, 13 miles. The view was beautiful. Standing on the edge of a precipice— uudurn&ith, l.»wcr tlown, a dei'P crook thickly irondcd running on our course; this picturesque prccipitory gorye in the tableland; then the gorge iu the distance— to the north-west are soon runges of hills. The grass on the tableland is coarse, mixed with a little spinifex— about half of it had been burnt by tlie natives some time ago. We had to search for a place to descend, and had great difficulty iu doing so, but at last accomplished it without accident! The valley near the creel;, which is running a stream, is very thickly wooded with tall stringy bark, gums, and varidus kinds of palm-trees, which are very beautiful, the stems growing upwards of ,r-0 feet high ; the leaves from 8 to 10 feet long, with a number of long smaller ones growing from each side resembling an immense large feather; a great number of these shooting out from the top of the high stems, and falling gracefully ov«r, l)as a very pretty light and elegant appearance. Followed the creek for about two miles down this gorge, and camped on an open piece of ground. The top course of the tableland is a layer of magnetic ironstone, which attracted my cmninis; upwards of 2f, underneath is a layer of red sandstone, and below that is an immense mass of white sandstone, which is very soft, and crumbling away with the action of the atmosphere. In the valley is growing an immense crop of grass, upwards of 4 feet high ; the cabbage palm is still in the creek. We have seen a number of new shrubs aud (lowers. The course of the tableland is uorth-north-west and southsouth east. The clirls, from the camp in the valley, must be from 2r-0 to 300 feet, hijrh. Beyond all doubt we are now on the Adelaide River. Light winds, variable. Lat. 13' 44' 14'. Friday, July 11.— Adelaide River, north-west side t:ii-lc'and. The horses being close at hand I got an early start at 20 minutes past 7; course north-west In a mile I got greatly bothered by the boiigy ground ami numbers of springs coming from the tableland, which I am obliged to round At two miles got clear of them, and proceeded over a great number of stony rist-s, very steep; they are composed of conglomerate quartz, underneath which is a course of slates, the direction of which is north-west, and lying very nearly perpendicular, and also some courses of ironstone, and a sharp rectangular hard grey rlintstouc. My horses being nearly nil without shoes, it has lamed a greas many of them, ami having struck the river again at 15 miles I camped: they have had a very hard day's journey. The country is nearly ail burnt throughout, but those portfons which have escaped the lire are well grassed. I should think this is a likely place to llnd goal in, from the quantity of quartz, its colour, and having so lately passed a large basaltic and granite country. The conglomerate quartz being bedded in iron, and thcslatc perpendicular, is a good sign. The stony rises are covered with striuvvbark, gum, and other trees, but not so tall and thick as on the table land and close to it, except in the creek, where it is very large; the melaluca is also large. Since leaving the tableland we have nearly lost the beautiful palms; theru are still a few at this camp, but they are not growing so high. The caubage palm is still in the creek and valleys. Light winds from south-east Country burn ing all round. Lat 133 38* 24'. This branch I have named the Mary, in honour of Miss Mary Chambers. Saturday, July 12.— The Mary, Adelaide Eiver. Started at half-past 7; course north-west Atone and a half miles .ame upon a running stream coming from the north-cast; had great difficulty in getting the horses across, the kinks being so boggy. One pot fixed in it, and was nearly drowned; in an hour succeeded in getting them all safe across! At six miles I ascended a high, tall, and stony hill; the view is not good, except to the westward. In that direction there is seemingly a high range in the far distance appearing to run north and south; the highest point of the end of the range is west to which the river seems to tend. My horse being so lame for the want of shoeing, I shall strike in for the river and follow it for another two miles, as it seems to run so much to the westward. I have resolved to use some of the horseshoes I have been saving to take me back over the stony country of South Australia. To enable McGorery to get them all shod on the front feet before Monday, 1 have camped. There is still a slaty range on each side of tlie river, with quartz hills close tlown to It; the timber the same as yesterday. The country 'has ' recently all been' burnt; but judging from the small patches that lia've escaped, has been well grassed up to the pass of the hills. The vallev and banks ot the creeks are of beautiful alluvial soil. One new feature seon to-day is the growing of large clumps of bamboo on tho banks of the river from 50 to CO feet in height, and about six inches through at tho butt I am now on one of the tributaries of the Adelaide River, A dreadful fire must have been here a few days ago; it has destroyed everything before it, except the crecn tress, to the edge of the water. Slight winus variable. Lat IT 35' 5S'. Sunday, July 13.— The Mary, Adelaide River Shoeing horses. Wind blowing strong, variable, from all points of the compass. Monday. July 14.-The Mary, Adelaide River. One of the horses cannot be found this morning, and he nas been for some time very ill and weak* and no appearance of getting better. It was my intention to have left him. We have been aU round the tracks forward and backward over the feeding ground and can see nothing of him I am afraid he has gone off to some place and died; I shall therefore waste no more time in looking for him. If he is alive j may have a chance pf recovering him on my return back.' Late start in consequence of so lopg looking f#r i him. As I h-we now got all the horses shod oh the front feet I shall now proceed on a north : west course through the stony rises, which are , still quart*1 and slate, splendidly grassed, with : gums and other trees and bushes, not too thick to get through with ease. Crossing six small creeks, one with holes wjth water inthem-tba third one. At nine miles crossed a large creek : which I have named William Creek, after the second son of John Chambers, Esq., of Adelaide. All running at right angles to my course. Imme diately after crossing this last creek the country changed to granite; the rises are composed of im mense blocks 0 with occasionally some quartz.

The country has been all burnt The valleys between the granite rises are broad, and of first rate soil: many of them are quite green, caused by spriugs oozing from the granite rock. We here passed a number of trees resembling the ironbark, also some like new ones, and many shrubs which Mr. Kekwick has found. Wind south-east. Lat 13*29' 25'. Tuesday, July 15.— Billiatfs Springs. I have named these springs in token of my approbation of his thoughtful, generous, and unselfish con duct throughout the expedition. I started at 20 minutes to 8 o'clock this morning; course north-west Crossed granite and quartz rises, with broad valleys between— both splendidly grassed. At three miles crossed a small creek with water; at another mile the same creek'ogain ; one also to my -line on the south-we&t side, and immediately went off to the south-west Kt six miles the river came dose- to the line, and immediately went off to the west Continued on my course through granite and quartz country splendidly grassed, and timbered with stnngyhark and gums, pines, palms, nut-trees, aud a wattle bush, which in some places was rather thick but not at all difficult to get through. At 10 miles again struck the river; it is now apparently running to the north. Changed to that course, but it soon left me. At three and a half miles -n the north course struck another creek running from the range north-east; it has an abundance of water, and is rather boggy. King's horso fell with him m it but did him no further injurv than giving him a wetting. A few of the other horses stumbled and rolled about in it for a short time, jut we got them all across without accident. Changed to the west of north. At half a mile reached a saddle between two hills; the west I ascended. The rivei now running between ranges to the west; they seemed a goal deal broken, with some high points to the north-west. There is a higher one, seemingly running north and south, with apparently a plain between about four nules broad, on which are four or five lines of dark trees. This leads me to suppose that the river is divided. The plain being very thickly timbered, I could not see distinctly which was the main channel. Descended, and proceeded on a north west course. At one and a half miles struck the nvcr, again running north; changed to that auu at two and a half miles camped. The country s noW all burnt; I am obliged to stop when; I can get feed for the horses. One of the chan nels comes close to the bank, east side, about six yards wide and two feet deep, lied sandy; the mam channel must be in the middle of the plain. The lull I ascended to-day has been under the influence of fire; it is composed of quartz, and a hard dark-coloured stone; the quartz runs in veins throughout it— in places crystalline, and formed into spiral and many-sided figures. In places thp.re is a crust of iron, as if it had been ru-: between the stones -tliat is also crystalline Wind south-east Lat 13* 17' 22'. Wednesday, July IC.—The Mary, Adelaide Kiver. started at 20 minutes to 8 o'clock; course north. The river runs off again to the north-west and I have passed over an undulating country, all burnt but the soil of the richest description. The rises arc comprised of quartz and a hard white stone, with ocaisionally a little ironstone. At three miles crossed a creek with waterholes. At five miles crossed another. At seven miles came close to a high hill. Ascended it. At the foot it is composed of a hard slaty stone covered with a cake of iron ; about the middle s quartz, and on the top conglomerated quartz. The view from south-wost to north-west is exten sive, but this not being the lushest hill the rest is hidden. To the west is a high hill, bluff at both ends, seemingly the last hill of the range; its course apparently north-west and south-east At this bluti hill the range seems to cease, or drops into lower hills. A branch of the river lies between it and me, but there are still a number of stony hills before I can reach it; to the north-west and north there are ;ugh and stony hills. The river now seems to mn ,0 the west on a bearing of 30° north of west, fcrorn 20 to 25 miles distant is another range, at thu foot of which there is a blue striiie, apparently water, which I suppose to be the main stream of the Adelaide. Descended, as the country is too rough and stony to continue cither to the north or north-west. I changed to 3 north of west, crossed some stony hills and broad valleys, with splendid alluvial soil, the lulls grassed to the top. On that course struck the branch of the river; still very thick with the same kind of timber already mentioned. Most of the bamboos are dead; I suppose the fire has been the cause of it I again find it turning to the north; I turn to that course. At three miles struck a large creek coming from the east with large sheets of water; had to run it up half a mile before I could get across it Crossed it all right, and passed through a beautiful valley of green grass. After that found that I was again on the .stony rise, where avcry blade of «rass had been burned off; and not knowing how far they may continue I have turned oil' again for the creek, to give the horses the benefit of the valley. The timber is the same as yesterday in some places; the stringybark is much larger. The banks of the river, when we first came upon it to-day, arc high and stony. The range to the east seems to cease about here; we are now crossing low undulations. I have seen a number of kangaroos to-day ; they do not srem to be as large as those in the south. The vallevs nre composed of cnnglomonircd ironstone umhrr.catli the soil. A lurge ii-!tiibor of ne.v I. irds s«.^!i to day, some of them with splendid plumage. V.'-nd south-cast. Lat. 13° 7' 2r.

^ Thursday, July 17. — Tide Creek, Adelaide River, started at 8 o'clock: course north-west. Passed over some stony hills, small creeks, and valleys well crossed. At three miles again met with the branch of the river— with bamboos and trees of the description same as before- a running stream, but not so rapid. At five miles, observing an open plain among the trees, and the river tending more to the wcotw^nl, 1 changed my course to it, 15*. west of north; found it to be .ijwn tJlnlti, ot rich alluvial soil at places. At times it seemed to be subject to inundation— 1 aui-p-h)o tlio diutuage fnuu ihu raugu to me east ward, which is distant about four miles. .1 am pleased it 1ms been burnt, but where it has not the grass is most abundant; where the water seems to remain it is rather coarse. The plains are studded with lines of green gum-trees, and the palm cabbage are numerous, which give them a very pretty park-like appearance. They con tinued for JO miles, when made a srimli stony Ml. \Yc nipt with a large creek, with large holes of water in it; and, supposing I had got upon the plain that ran to the sea-coast, and seeing those I had passed over so drv, camped; and having sent Thring to a rise to see where the river is, he returned, hut can see nothing of it, but reports high bills to the north-west 1 am glad of this, for it is not my intention to follow the river round if I can get water in other places, for it has already b.ecn well described south of this by Lieutenant Helpman when he came up in a boat and I wish to sen what the country is away from its banks. Wind south-cast, with a few 'clouds from the north. For the last week the weather has been exeellent-not too hot during tho day, and eooj and refreshing at night The mosquitoes are very annoying, and the flies during the day are a pertect torment. This creek I have called Priscilla's Creek. Lat. 12' 50' 51'. Friday, July IS.— Priscilla's Creek. Started at 15 minutes past 8 o'clock; course north-west. Passed over grassy plains and a stony rise. When at three miles, seeing the termination of a range in a bluff point, changed my course 31 IT. I Weeded, still crossing stony hiils, consisting of ironstone, slate, and a hard white rock, which is broken into rectangular fragments; also over broad valleys, which arc covered with gntss, that when green must have stood very hi^'h, but is now so dry that it breaks off before the horses; my horse being first, collects so much on his front legs, that 1 have been obliged to stop, pull him back, and allow it to fall, so that he may step over it, go on, get another load, and do the same. At six and a half miles, after crossing a plain, crossed a deep bamboo creek; this I have named Ellen's Creek. Proceeded over two other stony rises and valleys of the same description, and came' upon extensive plains, well grassed, and of Tieautihil alluvial soil. Cross ing them towards the bluff point, at 15 miles came upon the Adelaide, between me and the bluff, which is alwut a mile further on. The river is about 80 yards wide, and so still that I could not see which way the current was. I suppose its being high tide was the cause of this. The tanks are thickly lined with bamboo, very tall and stout; the banks very sleep, and 12 feet down to the water's edge. The water ap peared to be of great depth, ami entirely free from snags or fallen timircr. The rangp on the opposite side of the river, for which 1 was direct ing my course, being the highest I have seen in this new country, I have honoured it by naming it after His Excellency the Uovernor-iii-Cliief of bouth Australia Daly Range, and its highest peak to the north, Mount Daly. Before reaching the river, at 13 miles, we passed a high con spicuous teut hill, at rifjht angle, north-east to our line; this I have named Mount Goyder, after the Surveyor-General of South Australia, followed the river on a north course for about a mile, when I was stopped by a deep side creek of thick bamboo, with water; -turned to the east rounded the bamlioo, but found myself in a boggy marsh, which I could not cross. This marsh is covered with fine grass, in black alluvial soil, in which is growing a new kind of lily, with a large broad heart-shaped leaf a foot or more across. The blossoms are six inches high, resemble a tulip in shape, and arc of a deep brilliant rose colour. Ihe seeds are contained in a vessel resembling the rose of a watering-pot, with the end of each egg-shaped seed showing from the holes, aud the colour of this is a bright yollow. The marsh is studded with a great number of melaluca trees, tall and straight As I could not cross, I had to round it, which took me a little more than an hour, when I got upon some low undulating rises, not far from Mount (Joyder, composed of conglo merate ironstone and ironstone gravel, which seem to produce the springs which supply the marsh. Camped on the side of the inarsh to give the horses the benefit of the green grass, for some of them are still troubled with worms and' are very pour and miserable, and I have no medicine to, five them, and there is not a blade of grass an, the banks of the river; all has Ueen burnt within the last four days. Native smokes in every direction. Wind south-cast, with 'a few clouds. Lat 12= 49' 30'. ? -???.- +i» . Saturday, July 19.— Lily Marsh, Adelaide Biver. Started 10 minutes past 9 o'clock ; course 20° east of north. At thrco miles crossed some stony rises and brood alluvial grassy valleys; at four miles met the river, had to ko half a mile to the south-cast to round it. Again changed to my first course. At seven and a half miles crossed a creek with water. The country to this is good, with occasionally a little ironstone and gravel, timber of stringvbark, with occasionally a little low gum scrub. Having crossed this creek, we as cended a sandy tableland, with an open forest of stringybark (good timber), palms, gums, other trees and bushes— it has been lately burnt but the roots of the grass abound— this continued for about three miles. There is a small stony range of hills to the west which, at the end of the three miles, dropped into a grassy plain of a beautiful block alluvial soil, covered with lines and proves of the cabbage palm-trees, which gives it a very pic turesque appearance— its dip is towards the river. In two miics crossed it and again ascended low tableland of the very same description as the other. At 14 miles struck another creek with water, and camped. The country gone over to-day, though not all of the very best description, has plains in it of the very finest kind— even the sandy tableland bears an abundant crop of grass. Tlie trees are so thick that I can get no view of ihe surrounding country. The tall beautiful palm grows in this creek. Native smokes about ; but we have not seen any natives. There are large masses of volcanic rock on the sides of this creek. At about a mile to the eastward is a large body of springs that supply water to this creek, which I have named Anna's Creek. Camped at 10 minutes to 3 o'clock. Wind variable. Lat. 12'39'r. ?'?????

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