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1 correction by doug.butler - Show corrections

STUART'S JOURNAL

[Continued from Saturday]

\7M.*uuaasT,t MaTfia-^venue. At euyoreaK i . dispatched Kekwicfc In search 61 permanent water, witar orders; to-devotenbeTwhole of tiro days tt-. that purpose. I .must now do everything in my

Rtdnc toifae north.. -If I wmi*«»brjgeW» mflea. rom this, I think there would be a chance -of get ting to the coast - 1 wish the hones jbouU endue he want of water a few days longer. Ihit tost oimiey has' trWtKemtttteir utmost Two of them still look wretched, and T think will with difficulty get over HV Ffve t-f thenrwooM have rtood inoth« tlegn^ but I tlare not -mt the Dthera. PorAe past three* weeks I have been' suffering dreadfuliwins in the muscles, canted- by the scurvy ; toot the last two nights they have1*en ' most excruciating; -«o much so that I abnost arisheo' that deathwonM com* ana reUeve me of mytortsre. I*cann6t'Iong;enthnemany Dlglita. mch as last, as I am very weak! 'bnflmnst abide Ills morning*! am better. -The medicines -I nought with ine are' beM and have no effect. Wind, south-west.- Clouds coming from taenprth afesL' ' ' ' ' ???'?.'.. Tbtuiday/ May 17.— Centre, Wmd from the touth, heavy clouds continued until sunrise, then sfeared ott I was in fuU expectation of getting lome lain, but tat} disappointed. I have again ot tnrougn a '*ya\tifni niwit ot tufiering. I n&d ibout^two hourt'tleepi wp-»i^ wmji g*7iT)^^jnB*1** the .only .-sleep for, three nighti»i_.Thu.;mornmff I* tbserved the -tv'*1— ^ '»y ff'K« *Tf Thi*{g'*j* ram the yellow green colour ipahlack; mynjDtttn s tsettmg worse, and it is nth/difoculty -Ij can tndlow anything. -lam determined not to gve in* to it -Ishall. move, about 'as long aspotsiUe. I irishibe^orteB had been right,- and then I sbbuld not have been hereto long.' ? KekwJok returned it 3 o'£loek,-«nd -reputed having- found water to be Hanson,- about 15 miles from Oentral-Mpunt Jtuart, but only ? small supply; beyond this the jfeet -dividesr into- two— one -ninning north,' the ithereatV Hesawi twonativea, armed' with long*, mean. butabouta00yaiu^off;tbcro1dnotobs^rve

him. and he, tbinungit moetDrudent, eua not snow Mnuelt so remained behind a bush till they were gone. In this instance Iregret hit bemgaoprn aQtiorlam-anzioutto bear of the appearance [thecentral natives. Wind is changeable. Cloudt From the north-west. ' Friday, May la-Centre. I have had a bad nisht's rest, and feel unable to move to-day. Wind, north-west - ? , Saturday, May 19.— Centre. I had a few hours* deep last night, which has been a great benefit to me. Moved down to the Hansoni where we arrived it half-past L Completely done up was I from the motion of the horse. The water is a few inches -elow the surface in the sand. East side of Mount tuart bearing S5D*, and about 10 miles distant I do not think the water permanent. Sunday, May 20.— The Hanson. Another fearful night Ho rain. Wind and clouds from the north irest Monday, May 21.— The Hanson. Unable to move; very ill Indeed. When shall I be relieved trbm this dreadful state* Tuesday, May 22.— The Hanson. Last night I eot a little sleep, and feel much easier this mom ing, and shall try and ride again. I shall steer north-east to a range of hills that I saw from Central Mount Stuart and hope from there to obtain an entrance to the north-west or north-east I am also in the bone of cuttins the creek that

carries on ine surplus water nom au we creea bat I nave passed. One wonld scarcely think that the immense bodies of water that 1 have seen since March can be consumed by evaporation. Started on a course of 48*; crossed the Hanson, running a little on our right At six miles crossed it again, running to the north for two miles further. We crossed other four of its courses, running in the same direction; the most eastern one is spread over a arge salt creek valley, and forms a lagoon at the dot of some sanundges, the highest of .which is lUf miles from last camp; on the east side of it there is a large lagoon, five miles long and one and a half broad: water has been in it lately, but it is now dry. We then proceeded through a little scrub and splendid grass. At IS miles cut a small gum creek coining from tbe range; there arc a number of birds and fresh native tracks in tbe creek. Sent Kekwick down to see if there was any water, while I went up and examined it Bound this is a large gum plain that we met* the day we made the centre. It is completely covered with gross. Kekwick has run the creek out At two niles he passed a little water, where the natives lave been digging. He also came upon two of them, with two little children. They did not ob serve bun till he was within fifty yards of them. They stood for a few minutes, paralysed with asto nishment then, snatching up their children, ran off as quick as their legs would carry them. They did not utter a sound, althouuh we called to them.

Ye also observed they had no hair on their heads. I wish I could have got uutficiently close to have seeu if it were really so, as the report in Adelaide * that natives in the interior have no hair on their .bodies. At 14 miles we again struck the creek, with plenty of -water. It winds over a beautiful plain. Camped, and very much done up. I could hardly sit the saddle this short distance. Wind, north-west Wednesday, May 23.— Gum creek, east range. rhist creek I have named the Stirling, after the Hon. Edward Stirling, M.L.C. Followed it into the range on the same course towards a bhuT where 1 think I shall find an easy crossing. At one mile from the camp the hill commences ou the south-east side of the creek, but on the north west tide it commences three miles further back. In the creek there is an abundance of water for 13 ' miles. ? At 10 miles there is another large branch, with water, coming front the south-east At 14 miles ascended the muff awl obtained the follow ing bearings:— To a high peak on the south side of the creek, which I have named Mount Gwynnc, after His Honor Justice Uwynne, 186*; at two miles distant to another hill on the north side, 249*. which I have named' Mount Mann, in memory of the late Commissioner of Insolvency. Central Mount Stuart bears 131' to the highest point at the north-west termination of next ranRc, o which I shall now «a They appear to be two arge hills— the north one the highest— which I lave named Mount Strelitzki, after Count Stre litzki, bearing 353*. Another high peak on the same range I nave named Mount dlorphett, after the Hon. John Morpbett, M.L.C The view from this bluff 'a extensive, except to the west north-west which I have named Forster Bonce,

otter ine non. Antnony rorstcr, JH.-UtJ. i-rom the south-west is the appearance of a long con tinuous range, much broken. On this side (the north-east) arc table bills, with a number of isolated ones on the north side; to the north-west is a scrubby and gum-tree plain; to the northnorth west are some isolated low ranges; to the east are a number of spun from this range, composed of a hard, dark, red sandstone, mixed with small round quartz and ironstone— in some places flinty quartz. The range and hills are covered with spim fex, but the valleys are grossed. Descended and crossed a most beautifully grassed country. At four miles struck a creek coming from the range, and passing between two low ones running towards the north-east At Beven miles changed my course to the north-cast Camped in the creek to, endea- vour to get water for the horses, before encounter ing the scrubby plains to-morrow. At five miles came upon a low range, but no creek; it must have gone more to the eastward. It lieuis now dark, , camped under the ranges. Since I changed my course I have come through patches of nuuga and other scrub, with plenty ot grass. No watercourses. Wind, souta-east ; lightning in the south and west Thursday, May 24.— Bange of low hills. This morning I feel very ill from climbing the bluff yesterday. No sleep during the night, the pauu leing so violent At about 9 o'clock we bad a heavy shower of rain, and a few more during the night Very late before the horses were found, and every prospect of rain; also, niy being so ill I liavc decided upon remaining here till to-morrow, there being sufficient water for the horses, and few showers during tbe day. Wind, north-west , . Friday. May 25.-Bange of low hills. Feel bettcrthis morning. Clouds all gone. Started for Mount Strelitzki; pawed some mulga scrub with plenty of grass. At 21 miles came upon a small gum creek. Gave the horses water, filled our can teens, and proceeded to the foot of the mount and camped; at a mile from its basis the spimfex again h«rin« Winil. cnnth^AfiL and verv verv cold.

Saturday, May 28.— Mount Strelitzke. Camped. Very heavy clouds from the north-west The Mount is about four miles distant At sundown it commenced to rain for about an hour; it is very strange, the clouds come from the.north-wcst, and the wind from the south-east The rainy weather seems to be coming against the wind. Sunday, May 27.— Lagoon, north-east of Mount Strelitzke. We had a tew heavy showers dnting the night, but it seems as if it would dear off; which! hope not, as we have not yet b^d sufficient; there are only two inches water in the Lagoon. Again feel the pains in my limbs very bad bom climbing to top of the Mount, and assisting to build the cone of stones; but if I were not to put ray hands to abnost everything that is required I should never get on; my party is too small; It is terrible killing work. Monday May 28.— Lagoon, north-east of Mount Strelittke. Could not get a start till a quarter-past 9 o'clock; the horses having strayed to a distant bank for shelter from the wind, which is piercing cold. Forthreemileslhadtogotothenorthnorth west, in order to dear the low stony range that runs to tbe east side of the Lagoon. I then changed to 22* for the far distant ranee. The first

three miles on Una course was tnrougn a uu« mulga scrub: plenty of grass and little spinifex. It then changed to slightly undulating; the country of a reddish soil gum-trees, cork-trees, and numerous low sandy plains, much resembling the gum and spinifex to the west, where I was twice beaten bock, only varied by » little mow scrub, and undu lating country, which, gives me hope of its soon rewtimg' Camoed, without water, on ftlittle patch of grass. Distance, to-day. 88 miles. Wind, south east. It has been very.cold all day. Tuesday, May 20.— ficruh, spinifex, and gum-tree plain. Started at 8 o'clock on the same course for. the range, which it still distant, through the same description of country. At seven miles we came upon a plain of long grass; it seems to have been flooded— most likely where a creek empties itself; it it about two miles broad. Between this and the first hill of tbe range we passed four of the same description. To the first hill, 14 miles, Iri another mile we struck a creek; searched for water, but found none, although there i are a number 6f birds. We then passed through another mulga scrub. After crossing'anumberol rough stony hiOs we arrived at the top of the range, which I have named Davenport Bange, after the Hon. Samuel Davennott, ftl+C, ; they ate composes of haul ted sandstone wnK courses of quartz. I find tmsis not what I took itttfbe, at there is one hkher behind it, and I should think it 40 or 50 mfles distant; the day being thick I cannot see distinctlr. Betweenthese ranges there it a large

plain, more open .nan tnosewe nave come over; io tbe north ^apparently the termination of the; range: to the west of north (Just visible) are two high hills, the northernmost is conical; to the eartanaaouth-east is tbe plain and range; to the west continuation of the plain of- tne/lsst two days' Journey. Although we twei smm Ij&ty bdforetnaknig this range, nor did we see adrop of surface water: it seems to be absorbed tbe moment it falls. Descended the north-north-east side of the range, and at one and a half mfc found some rain water in a creek coming fromtte range; Camped. Distance, 2Q miles. Wind, south eaWednesday, May 30.— The Davenport Bange. I find the water wM not last xnore tfian thjee days. Ibave decided; to remain here to-day/so have sent Kekwickln search of inure, and as my .hands i aw i a little better I must get my plan brought up, which is a long way behind. In consequence of my hands being so bad with the scurvy, fnave not been able todo anything to it for some time. The pains in my limbs are much easier, but the ridina is very severe : my mouth is much better, which gives me hopeof its leaving me nod, Satire tricks are

htm Wnenontherangelsawsmokeinihe scrub a?few miles no the north^rest. tJondown:— I am quite TOrprwed at Kctwick's not returning, a? my instructions to him were not to po more titan five or Rtx uiiics; and then'to return whether he found water or not; lam much nfraitl something has happened to him. and feel very uneasy about him. Thursday, May 3L-Dayenport Bange.. Kck wick! lias not returned; I do trust nothing has happened to him. I must be off and follow up his track*. Scut Ben fortltu horses ; he was a long time finding them,' as is generally tbe case when one wants a thine in a hurry, llalf -past &— Kekwick hi» arrived before the horses; he overshot his mark last night and got beyond the camp. I am glad he 009 returned safely. He informs me thathe came upon plenty of water a lev inilea. Irom here,, which compensates for Ae anxiety he caused tat- during the, night; his reason 'for not .returning-. was his crossing a gum. creek which had a promising an-^ pcarance and induced him to follow it to the plains where he found abundance of .water. Whflehe; was riding he was taken very ill and unable to come on, for some, time, .which, made; it so .late that he could not see Jtq reach the camp. He is unable to go on to-day, which is vexing; for Iwisn.to.get on as'qukkly.as possible. ? ...- .' ?? i Friday. June I.— The Murchison Banns. : Du

not get A nan-tut uue, «k nuraca, wth« bmmcu. Started oh a cantae of 22', and at two miles struck a gun. creek coming from .the range and running west-north-west' Attfaree and abalf miles fronton large ewe- i*-''?'g ^v' -**wi pinning |q the .'same direction;- then commenced «gairi the same- sort of. country that we-aatsed through the .other day, except some- loir stony rivers.- At eight muet-etrocka splendid large, gum ereekbajvmg large and deep reaches of- water with* fish'fo u or Are. inche»- long, and running as far asT can see through the plain, and its courscat this nlacejis to *hewes^noith-west;it is very broad, and in some places tbe hwn**T are- perpendicular; nom bank to bank its width is about -ten chains, tfndjweQ grassed with. fine gum trees; -mulga and! other bushes. -This- i* as fine a-'creek*-r water: aj» we nave .passed- since leaving CnamtersVereett. It beingJar- advanced in the day. I shall eamp|bere and 'get to- tne'range to-morrow; ''I am-niuch incnned.to1 follow this creek and see' where it empties itself, but I expect to find ar large one pert the range, or on the other side, and I wish to get on the top of tte range to Me what the country, in advance is like. The fish in this creek leads me to think it must empty itself either at tbe north-west coast or into a lake. I hardly think it can empty itself bto the gum plain like others lately passed, i have named it the Bonney Creek, after Charles Bonney, Esq., late Commissioner of Crown Lands for South Australia. . Saturday, June 2.— The Bonney Creek. Started at twenty minutes nut 8 on same course, 22*. for the range, through a country .of alter nate spinifex; grass, ^*m1 mulga scrub. At seven miles struck the large gum creek, with every ap pearance of water. I have no time to look font, being anxious to make the range tonight The creek is large and resembles the other. I have named It McLaren's Creek, after John McLaren.

i»q., late Deputy surveyor-uenerai of south Aus tralia. We have passed through a good grassed country, with a little scrub; At seventeen miles we reached the top of the first range, which is com posed of a hard white granite-looking rock, with courses of quartz through it. . I have got three or four spurs to cross before making, the main range. McLaren's Creek is running in the same direction as the Bonney .Creek. as far as I could see. Started from tbe top of range, and bad a difficult, job in crossing the spurt; At sun down arrived safely on a gum flat between the ranges. Attempted to get upon what appears to be the highest range, but were deterred in getting up the horses, We then sought for water among the numerous gum creeks that cover the plain; at dark found some, and camped. There u a good' supply, but I do not think itu permanent ; it will last a month or six weeks. Wind, variable. Sunday, June 3.— Murchison Banges. Feel un well this morning bom tbe rough use of yester day. It was mymtention to. nave walked to the top of the range to-day, but I am not able to do so. Between the ranges is a bed of soft white sandstone, through which the different creeks have cut deep counes. The stones on the sur face—igneous principally— ore composed of iron quartz, dark, black, and blue, also a bright red one; they run together, and twist into all finds of nicks. This plain is covered with a most hard spinifex, very difficult to get tbe horses to face. There is a little grass in the creek. About 1 mile south-west from the camp, in another creek, it a large watcrhole 10 yards long by 20 wide, which wiu test months. I have named these raniea. Monday, June 4.— Murchison Banges. Started on a course of 330*, to round this spur of the ranges, and at four miles and a half changed to 15\ to high point of the range. At three miles arrived on the top, which I nave named Mount Figg. From this the view is extensive. The course of this range from the south to this point is 230*. it then nukes a turn to the north-nurtn-wekt; in that direction the country appears more' open, with some patches of thick scrub and- high ranges in the distance. From north-west to* west: it

uppean h- ue gum puin.wiui open paicnes ot grass, a number of creeks running Into it. I shall change my course to a* high peak on the) north west point of the range, which bean from thi*i 340* air. This range is volcanic. Here it is tbe, same formation as I nave already given. Started from the top of the mount at 12 o'clock, went along the side of the range for eight miles, and met a small creek ruuning our course. Followed it up for three miles; it then took a more westerly course. I then left it, taking my own. After leaving the mount tbe range a composed of red sandstone with a few quartz.. Camped at 6 o'clock without water. Did not meet a creek since leaving the one coming from the ranges. The country from that is red sandy soil, well grossed, having now and then to go through a little spinifex, gum trees, mulga, cork-trees, mallee, and numerous other' scrubs; none being my thick. We occa sionally met with a little ironstone gravel. ' Tuesday, June 6.— Gum-tree Plain. Started on the same course for the high peak at 7 o'clock, through the same kind of country as yesterday. No watercourse at 15 miles. Ascended the peak, which I have named Mount Samuel, after my brother. The top is a mass of nearly-pure iron stone; it attracted the compass 1UO\ From north to west is a number of broken ranges ami isolated hills, in all sorts of shapes, being volcanic. No high distant hills visible. The isolated hills secin to be termination of these ranges, which appear to be running north and south. I have named them the McDouoll Range*, after Colonel McDouaU, of the 2nd life Guards, Lotmn, Wigtownshire. !I then changed my course to the north-north-east, in search of water, there being no appearance of any to the north-north-west After travelling five miles, over grassy, small plains, between isolated hills and gum-trees, I could not find a watercourse, so changed to the east to sec if I could tee any thing from a high hill, which I ascended, and can see a oum creek cominc from the nn-n- on

the east side. Followed it down ; and a mile and a half from the top found a splendid hole of water in the rock, verk deep and permanent The creek is very rocky, and Its course here is north-east into the plain. Wind, south-east Clouds from the north-west Wednesday, June 0.— Gum-creek, north-east side of the McDouoll Banges. There being nothing* but spinifex on the ranges and creeks, the horses had been travelling alt night in search of food, and had gone a long way before they were over taken ; but we managed to get started by 11, on a course 310*. After crossing numerous creeks and stout spinifex, through which we had great diffi culty in driving the nones, at five miles struck a guiu creek, and found water. Tbo banks have most excellent feed upon them, and in abundance. It being so late when we started, and the hones having little food lost night, ana apparently thick scrub to encounter, and might be without water for three days, I have determined to remain here to-day and give them the advantage of the feed, so that they may be enabled to undergo a puth. At . this place the creek is running cast Ben. in searching for tbe hones this mornina; found three or four more large watcrholes hi the creek. A little south-east from this there appears to be on abundance of water in the ranges. Before we reached this we crossed some marks very much resembling . old horse tracks. This I have named Tennant's Creek. Thursday, June 7.— Tennont's Creek, McDouaU Banges. Started at 7.20, on a course 340*. At three miles passed through a large number of huge fwrttiitA Hvlr. titlAf! fr/WMkftnA*- vrtftH. ? 9im email

aratercounes running among them to tbe eastward. We then encountered a thick scrub, and occa sionally crossed a few low quartz rises coming from the McDouaU Banges. At 14 miles ascended the highest of them. To the north-west and north is another range about 10' miles distant which seems to continue a long way. I will change my course to 315*. That being the highest point, I have named it , Mount Woodcock, after the Venerable the Archdeacon of Adelaide. At two mifcs on this course we came upon a gum creek,- running to the north-east Followedlt for a mile and a hah*, and found water, which will last five or six weeks, and an immense quantity of bird*. Native camping-place. They soem to have been here lately. Watered the hones, and proceeded towards the range. At two miles passed a low ironstone range,. peculiar In having a large square mass of ironstone standing by Ucelf, about the centre. I nave named it Mount Sin clair, after James Sinclair, Esq., of Port Lincoln. Passed through the thick scrub, in which we saw a new one; it has a blue-green leaf, 10 inches long by six broad: it ia a very nandsome bushuiLookeil for some seed, but could find none. At five miles crossed a grassy gum plain, where a creek empties itself. The same, scrub continues to the range, where we arrived at 12 miles from the water. It is not very high, but rough and steep, and we had great difficulty. in getting to tho ton: but; after many twisUnga, Uimings, and scromblings, we at last arrived all right We have found it to be tableland. At 14 miles camped without water. The. range is composed of ironstone, granite,, quartz, and red sandstone, running north of west and south of east I have named it Short's Bange, after tbe Lord Bishop of Adelaide. Friday, June a-Short's Range. Started at 8, on the same course, 315*, to some distant rising ground. Short a Bange teems to run nearly parallel to our course; also another distant range to the .north, which I have named Stint's Bange, after Captain Start The tableland continued about two miles, and then a gradual descent to the

puuns, ana eniereu a wick scrno oi spinuex van sum. At 18 miles came upon a beautiful plain of grass, having large gum-trees, a new description of tree, the foliage of which is a dark green, having a1 rough dark-coloured bark; also the cork-tries, and numerous shrubs. . This plain contmueu 'for 31 miles, when t*e camped,' Wit me but part is not so gWe are now getting into spinifex and a laridy 'soil; the thick scrub is beginning When I struck **»*? plain I was m great of finding water, but such is not the case. We have not crossed a watercourse for 31 miles. Wind, south-east Saturday, June 9.— Grassy plains. ? There is some rising ground a little farther on, to which I shall go in search of a creek. If I do not find one I shall have to retreat to Bishop's. Creak, °'tW the hones have now bjen two nigbis Without water. Started at » tamo course, fflff, through scrub and a light sandy sou. At four miles got to ine, .which is a scrubby sandhill, I can see nothing from this, tbe scrub being so thick— about 12 feet high— a nasty tough why description; it has torn our saddle-bags and hands to pieces. I got op a tree to see over It, and can see nothing but scrub for a long distance in our course. No appearance of any creeks. I must endeavour to find wattr. It is very vexing to get this (at and have to turn back, when perhaps another day's Journey would bring tne to 'a better country. I shall now thke'a todth course and cut the grassy plains to the westward, in the hope of finding water. If I succeed I shall be able to get two days' journey to the north-west Started on a south course through scrub and small grassy plains, and at 14 miles came upon the large one, but no water can we find. 8eemg the state of ray horses for the want of it, I now rejret that I attempted the south eourse, which makes the distance'from thewatei so much greater, but I fully expected to have met wiU* it in the«r«sy plains, fhope we (hall meej

with more, success to-morrow. , Wind, souraesst Hesty douds from the north-weat I trust if will -rain.before morninjr. ... „..,.., ?? Snwhr. ' unc 10.— Grassy plains: ' At sunrise started, and. at tffo mites again got into the scrub. Three of the hone* we can scarcely get alonsc; th.ey.arc: very much done up. Atllonegavein altogether. W« ' cannot get him dp. ' We have tf m everything!* our power to do'aometnjng for him. 'The' 'other horses* have' been carrying his load, and he has been going without anything to carry this last hour and a half. It will not dul and I am obliged, although with great reluctance, to leave him to, hi* 'fate. . Had tbis occurred nearer the water! should have put an end to bis exist* ,ence by.takjng par| of himtoeajrfprwe arejiow very snort ot provisions, and the other bones have quite, enough to carry without having to .take his load.. lv|sb I had left him sooner. At 12 o'clock I final Wall ]ose_|Oipe more if they do nof get. water to-night and ,it wQl.be to-morrow before I Short's Bange ano\try.tp.find some. Thelittiebay mare, Polly, has become nearly mad, rnnping about amorgthe horses and kicking them as she 'passes. ' Even tbe men do not escape from her beels. At five and- a half miles made the range. Tnere are no large creeks coming', from this side, but a few small, ones,' which empty themselves in the plain, Sanduptothefootoftheiulls. Before reaching the range another hone is done up. '. We have taken his load ofi. He has only been car Tying about 30 lbs. In, consequence, of. his bock being bad. We lightened all the weak horses, two days since. We stall now try- if the .bad one! will go without anything on his back. We are now amour the Eranite ndoes. and hone to find water

on toe other side. The hone has given in. iwe must leave him for the sake of the othenltoo much time has already been ? lost in endearouring to get them on. Beached the other side. Searched the diffluent creeks, but. can find- no water/ Crossed.* spur of the range running south, land. can tee « nice-looking creek, with gum trees/ Hopes and sptritt are again' revived ; the sjgnt of it has freshened, the horses, who are hurrying on towards it Traversed if down, but to our great disappointment ftmod^hat it lost itself in a gassy tJftjp It is* now dark, ? so I shall remain beri) for ihe night .TJhe airy is overcast, fnd I trust Provi-. |H*J itatPPtfUCd (O tuft IVaUsSsT ? WC- -YsTCffr CawtWUUa* it hating run out If it clean during the n^bX.so T7a?z£zgr togaMe - ***«»?? - Monday, June 1L— Short's Bange. During the night, them- were* a few tiropa of rain, which en livenetfns with the bopS 5 more, and at 4 it looked as if we were to nave-'a deluge; but alas! ft only lasted about two minutes, ana as much fell as would wet a pocket-handkerchief. Saddled and started through, the range. My poor little mare looks vert bad this morning. I have taken every thing off her to try and get her to water, and have been obliged to leave as rainy things at this camp as we can possibly do without The mare lies down every lew yards; therefore ii left her. for the sake of the otter*, hi the ranges. From the num ber of birds about, I think there must be water near. I hope she may find it, although lam afraid: sheis too.far gone even to try. Beached the foot of Mount Woodcock at L Hpnes revived at seeing the track. -I shall now be able to get them all safe to water, although one is still doubtful My own black mare shows symptoms of madness, butAtiUteeps on and does tier VorkwelL About an hour.hclore sundown, arrived at the water without any more losses, for which I sincerely thank the iJmignty. We have had a terrible job to keep the hones from drinking too much water, but now they have had a few monthfuls of nasal

nave allowed them to take at much at they think proper.' The natives have been here since we left. Tuesday. June 12.— Bishop's Creek. Besting nones. They loorvery bad, 'and remained by the We4nestar, June 13.-B!shopV Creek. The horses rtffljpokjbad, and stayed by the water nearly all night They had been 101 hours without a drop, and haye accomplished a journey of 112 miles. They will require a week to recover. One isverytanefrennaklck the little mare gave him in her madness. Thus ends, at present, my last attempt to make the Victoria Biver. Three times hare I tried lit .and been forced- to retreat About 11 o'dock, I heard the voice of n native. Looked round and could see two in the scrub about a quarter of a mile distant I beckoned them to approach; but they kept making signs which I could not understand. I then moved towards them, but the moment they saw me move they ran off immediately. Some quarter of an hour after-, wards, they again made their appearance on the top of the quarts reef opposite our camp, and two other* showed themselves in the same place where the two fint did. Thinking this waa the only water. I made signs to tbe two on the reef to go to the water. 8U11 they continued to talk and make signs which I, could not understand. It seemed as if they wished us to go away, which I was determined not to do. They made a number ? of frantic gestures, dialing their spears, anil- twirling them round their heads; I suppose bidding us defiance. The youngest was about 25 yean, of age. They placed *a very long spear into the instrument they threw them with; and. .nfter a few more gestures, descended from the Ktjfand gradually came nearer. I made signs of encouragement to them to come on, at the same tune-moved towards him. At last we arrived on the banks of the creek, I on one aide, he on the other. He had a long spear, a wamera. two in struments like tbe boomerang, but more the shape of a scimitar, with a very sharp edge, having a thick place at the end for the habd, roughly carved. The gestures he was making were signs of hostility; he came fully prepared for war. I then broke a bunch of green leaves, and held it up before him. inviting him to come across to me. That he, did not fancy, to I crossed to him. and got within two yards of him. 'He thouimtl was

qune near enougn, ana wouia not nave me any nearer, for he kept moving back as I approached him, till at last we both stood still. I tried to make him understand: by signs that all we wanted was the water for two or three darsrat huthe seemed to ttnderatond, iniM^mrm^^ai^rta the water, then to our camp, and held up hit five fingers. I then endeavoured to learn from him if there was water in the north or north-east, but could make nothing of- him. He viewed me very steadily for a long Ume, began talking, and. seeing that I dlil not understand him, he made, the sign that natives generally do of wanting something to eat amlpelnt-*} towsidsme. Whether be mean, to ask if I wis hungry, .oithat I would make a supper for him, Idq not know-... Ibowed my bead-as if I understood bun nerfectly. We then separated, keeping 6 watchful eye upon him all the time! was crossing, the creek. Before I left him the other one joined. The fint was a tall, powerful, well-made fellow, upwards of six fcetThu hair was yery long. He had a net of a red colour round his head, with the end of hit hair lying on hit thoukler. I observed no other thing that was peculiar about him. They bad neither skint nor anything round their bodies, but were quite naked. They then took their departure. A abort time afterwards I saw them joined by five others. We have seen no

mure ui uicui wuay, ana i nope uey will not again trouble us. but let my hones rest in peace. Wind, south; all the clouds gone. Nights and mornings very cold. Shoeing horses, repairing ondmeiiarag'saddle-bags. ? ? Thursday, June R— Bishop's .Creek. On ex amining the waterbolel find there are small crab fish in them, which leads me to think it is perma nent This morning we again hear the voices of the natives np the creek- to the west., There must be plenty more water up there, as most of tbe birds go in that direction to drink; passing this water. The natives have not come near us to-day; their smokes have .been round us. * Shoeing horses, re pairing and making saddle-bags, which were torn to pieces by -the scrub. '''.'. ::' Friday, .June 15.— Bishop's Creelu. Betting hones and getting our equipments ready for another trial for which I think tbe bones will be ready on -Monday morning. No moreof-the natives, but their smokes are still visible. Wind coiniu3 from the south : days hot; nights cooL Saturday, June 16.— Bishop's CreeE Preparing for another trial. The horses ore ttill drinking an immense quantity of water, and are at it five or six times a day. They must have suffered dreadfully. The grass here is as dry as if it had been tbe middle of summer instead of winter. I hope we will soon have nun, which will be a blessing to me. Sunday, June 17.— Bishop's Creek. The bones are still paying fraeuent visits to the water. We have found more about a mile further up the creek.

and thero seems to ho plenty further up in the. bills. I cannot examine it now hi consequence ot the natives being about It would not do for tne to leave the party, it being so small: nor do I like sending one of them, for they might be taken by surprise and cut on; which wotud ruin me alto gether, being unable to do scarcely anything my self. Although much better, I am still very weak:: the pains 'dii my limbs are not so constant I attribute tnis relief to eating s number of native' cucumberi, which are w quantities on this creek. The hone that wat ldckedb* tbe mare ia still very lame. Wind, south-east. ? Monday. June lf-Started at half-past 9 on. a bearing OTIS' through a plain of alternate grata, scrub, and spinifex. At five n\ile^naisea a number of isolated hills dope together, composed of large masses of ironstone, quartz, and a hard brown rock, vory irregular; the stones have the appearance of having undergone the action of fire.' We then pro ceeded through some very bad spinifex, dark coloured, hard,ianddry;.we«puld scarcely get the horses tojface it We -lien came upon a grassy plain, aneLat 10 miles struck a-gnni /creek coming from tbe west of north-west, sjmI running at this abundance of water- in long deep holes, with shells' of crabfish lying on the banks. The water is up wards of * mile. The creek then spreads over a ?crab; gum-trees and grassy plain; and is joined by the other creeks comma from tbe MacDonnell Bange. I thought it advisable to camp here the restoftheday: a furtber journey would be a risk for the hone tbat is lame, and I do not wish to lose any more. In a few houn I shall cross Short's Bange, and I am afraid he wttl nottJe able to do it Nattvea.abont Splendid grass on the plain and on the banks of the creek. This creek I have named Phillips^ Creek, after John Phillips, J.P., ofKUriyata. Wind variable. Tuesday, June 19.— PhiUips's Creek. 8tarted at 8 on the same bearing, 18*. We fint passed throuJth a weU-gnused plain, with a little scrub, then Through hard spinifex. At one mile crossed

another «um creeK wi-^ water uut. iMsstaii from Short'sjsunge, at foqtmjles reached trw top of the spur of ?-me raigB; at seven miles top of range about fwa miles. To the east the range seems to terminate in ajzum plain, and apparently a spur from the MacDonnell utong*^ running the other aide of the plain, and coping our line. Short's Bange is composed of quartz, ironstone, red granite, and a little lime. Descended into the plain, and at ten miles came upon another (turn creek, spreading over a grassy plain. Fquno no water. At thirteen miles came' upon some dry swamps, with a numbe»of birds about them. At fourteen miles top of next range. From this the appearance -Sf the country on this course is seem ingly very scrubby. Tothenorththesame. On a bearing of 65* in the far distance is apparently the termination of anotherrange. I do not like facing the scrub again so soon after my last loss, and from which my nones are not quite recovered. I shall return to tbe swamps and look for water: itl find any, shall start to-morrow morning for the er.rf of the distant range. My lame 1icjac?U Unable' to do more teHl*yvanA3.injr tUat Kptge'ha* been hard upon bun. Ucturnetfla'tho iwanip9 and found a fine pon-\ ofjv'ater. , Camped. The water is derived from the creek that we passed in the middle of the day. These I hare named Kekwick's Ponds, in token of the zeal and activity he has displayed during the expedition. Wednesday, June 20.— Kekwiclrt Bonds. Sad dled at sunnse. Proceeded to the topoj'ihe Tlafc range, from which I turned hp& jestwday. and changed my course fo 5? ft Rofthermost distant point (vfhjDs, Tne country alternative grass and sufnttex. At 3 o'clock struck tbe William Creek, with splendid grass on its banks. It ran our course for nearly three mfles: it then turned to the east We then entered thick scrub of the same description as that in which I lost mvjtfhV horses. «id whicJi continued to. thj range. «fem. this we

ctjiseearangeto^sowiwaouUMast At aunt ten mfles bTsuifeiaktr apparently red sandsflb on the east side. I cannot see the extent of the hills thaf I am' onV being' *l low. They are eom poied of granite, and running north andsoutbi To thenotth and nortfreaatU another lake^iabout the same distance, to-whieh I shall go on a course of 82* 30*. . On the north side of thu dne-thete seems to be sandhills* with scrub. After leaving the hills we nassed -through a soft, sandy, scrubby country. It then becnmehanler, with alternate grass: and spinifex. At four miles from tbe-Jilua camped without water. My. hones have not recowied from their last trial, and- seem to «be. very tireil to night although tOKlay's journey was -not ajong one: but 4he-day has been hot, theacrub very thiclf. and difficult to get through. . ,i I'1 Thurtday, June 21.— ScruhT^he hdnes havhur gone back on the tack, we did not get a start till BttLtUwCTtf through a thick -scrub of. cork-tree, gums, ;and oiberlow thkkacnibkWiU) spinifex aodigraas.! At seven miles came-upon what I thowght to be; tbe lake, but turn* outto be alajge grassy P-ain of rich. aJluvial soU, covered with dry grass, which gave it the appearance of ? lake. At three miles crotsed to tbe top of Ihe hill; no water can be seen. The bills on the north'side are composed fo^sn^^sffiH^i^a^t^^

can see tbe plain extending a uttle'to the west of, north, but I cannot aee far for the mirage. ; To the north-north-east is anotner-pjaln, Iwt smaller —a mile and a half broad, and 'nearly circular, being surrounded by hills of the/tame description^ no watercourse nor water. To the north-eait is another verfertensive one^-ita dimensions I can not tee; I teem,to have gotJnto a land of grassy plains and lowltonVhifliV I-f ih riiyhorees hod bad water last night or yesterday— they seem to be much In want oTit; I most Bevdte the rest ofi the daxta.tearching-ior. it. I-tbalL thprefore, direct my cbune to the south part of the plain that I the flight of the birds is. in that direction, return to Kekwick-^onds. The day is extrertiely QQ%k t%QQ aUy oOHtfikVCfUlQOv iteaDu tVTO Tliffsa^j*i lOOtTO without water; if they do I shall lose two or three. Would that they had more endurance;' it is dread ful to have to turnback almost at the threshold of success..* I cannot be far 'from -the dip **of jtne ''oMntty to the gulf. Returned by another course to where I camped last »*gl*L I would Cain try. the plain, to the south, but Tdare not risk it; Icon spare no more hones. Proceeded to the low ranges that I crossed yesterday: examined it but can find no water. Camped. Two of tbe bones very much done up. I must back through nasty Bernh amun.

Friday, June 22.— Under the west low range. Started at sunrise for the Ponds, and at a quarter past 4 [arrived, the nonet very much exhausted. I am dad I did not remain another night, as three of tbemare completely done .up, and it has been with difficulty that we have got them here. Wind, south-east ? ?: Saturday, June 21— Kekwick's Ponds. Besting hones. About 10 o'clock were visited by two natives, who presented us four opossums and a number tf small parrots ; they were much frightened at first but after a short time became verrbold, and wished to steal everything they could by their fingen. on. I caught one conceal ing the rasp used in shoeing bones under the net ting he had round Ms waist, and was obliged to take it from him by force. Tbe canteens they teemed determined to have, and it was with trouble we could keep them away. They wanted to pry into everything, and it was with difficulty 'we could keep them off. In about half an hour two other young men approached the camp. Thinking they might be in want of water, and afraid to come to it on account of the hones, I sent Ben with a tin. dishful, which they drank. They were very young men, and much frightened, and would not come near. About an hour before sundown the first that came returned, bringing with them three othen; two were powerful, tall good-looking young men, and at fine ones as I have yet seen; the/ had a hat or helmet on their heads, which looked very neat, fitted close to the brow rising straight up to a rounded peak three or four inches above the head, and gradually became narrower towards the back part: the outside is network, the

tnsHK is composed of featnen very tightly bound with cord, until it it as hard as a piece of wood. 1\ may be used as a protection against the sun, or armour for the hattle-field. One of them had a great many scan upon him, and seemed to be a leading man. Two only had helmets on, the othen had pieces of netting bound round their foreheada. One was an old man, and seemed to be the father of the two young men; he was very talkative, but I could make nothing of him. I endeavoured to obtain from him where the next water is by signs and so on. After talking some time, and he talking to his sons, turned round and astonished me by giving me a masonic skin. I looked at him steadily ; he repeated it, as did also his two sons. I returned it which seemed to please thent much. The old man then patted me on the shoulder, stroked my bead, and took their departure, making friendly signs till out of sight We enjoyed a good nipper from the opossums, which we have not had for many a day. I find the quantity of rations not enough. The men are complaining of weakness for want of sufficient rations. Five pound* of flour per week is too little for anylungthof time. Itmaydoforamonthor&o; but when it comes to be so long as I have been out we feel it very much, and the dried meat being very young, it has not half the strength that old meat has. Sunday, June 24.— Kekwick's Ponds. Our block friends have riot make their appearance to-day. Monday,- June 25.— Kekwick's Ponds. Started again from ton of- low range on a bearing of 345* to some very distant hills, to see if I can get into the fall of the country to the Gulf of Carpentaria. At two i miles crossed a large gum creek, with large beds of concrete ironstone, which I have named Hayward Creek, after Fred. Hayward, Esq. The banks ore beautifullv massed, and extend for four

mues on tne north; it then becomes scrub, in axxne places, very thick, with spinifex occa sionally. At , 14 - miles struck a large gum creek, having large streets of water in it, and plenty of ducks, the native com panion, black snags, cranes and other birds upon it Camped here for the remainderof the day. The course pi the creek here is to the north of east, and coming from north of west,' apparently from the range, which is distant about ? 10 miles. This creek much resembles Chamben's Creek. There are some small fish in the pondi, which are about 80 yards broad and three-quarters of a mile long, having large masses of concrete ironstone at both ends separating the one pond from the other: thero arc also gumtrees on these ponds. Wind, north west; very hot. Tuesday, June 2a— Large gum creek with streets of water. I have resolved to follow this creek down Unlay, and if water continues to follow it out so started on acouweTT, and at tixmiles crossed the creek, it running a little more to the northilong streets of water all the way down to this. The banks at some places are Bleep; the lower part formed of concrete, the upper part is sandy soiL which gives me a had opinion of it for water if the concrete ceases. Here we saw some blacks, they wonld not come near us, but walked off as fast as they could, From the top ot the rise we taw where they camped, which wat on the bankt of a huso sheet of water. We passed them without taking any notice, and at nine miles not seeing any appearance of the creek changed my course to 25'. At three-quartenof a mile cut it again, but with no water in It It is much narrower and deeper, having sandy bank and sandy bed with-gutn-trees growing hi the bottom. Changed again to 7T, frequontly crowing the course, ami at 15 miles saw thero was no hope of obtainhwt water. The country is becom ing more sandy, with spinifex and thick scrub down

ine Danes oi ine creeic. j. must Keep dose to tne hill*, and as the day ho» been very hot Ishall return and camp at the nine miles from our last camp, if there is water; if there is not I shall have to camp a short way above where we saw the ; natives Uut morning. I do not wish to get too - near them nor among them in any way. Wo : could find no water below where they were i camped; I therefore pushed on to get above i them before dark. At about one an.d a half ' mile from the creek we saw where they had been, examining our tracks, and. as' we ajiproached the - creek their txacks became more numerous on ours. - When we arriuad on the top of the rise from where - we had previously teen their fire, we now saw ' nether smoke, fires, nor anything else; it being - nearly dark I concluded they had left in conse- ' quence of having seen us pass .in the morning. I ' was moving on to the place where we crossed the ' creek in the morning, and had just entered somci { scrub, when suddenly up started three tall powerful : men. fully armed; havinganumberof boomeranga, waddle*, andsnean. Their distance from us heuu* aiwut20Uyards,it.beingaltoneardaxk,andthe8ciub we were then hi being very dJsadvai-tageoMs for notice of them bat such war not their intention, as they continued to approach us, calling out and making all sorts of gestures, apparently of defiance. I then faced them, making all sorts of signs pi friendship I could think of. They teemed to hem a great fury, moving their boomerangs ahput thjdlr* ' beads and howling to the top of thejffc voices) tdso performing some tort of dance. They were now joined by a number more, which' in a raw minutes increased to upwards of 30— every bush teemed to produce a roan. Putting the horses on towards the creek, and placing ourselves between them and the natives,, told the men to get their guns ready, for Iconld see. they were determined upon TTiJ*/*ni*f They paid no regard to all tbe signs of friendship, I kept constantly making, but were ttill gradUttaV approaching nearer. I felt -very unvUIMUr to fire upon them and continued mnkloj; signs of peace and friendship, but all to.np. purpose. An old man (the leader) who was, kj advance made signs with his boomerang' for us to be off, which proved to be . one of- defence, for I bad no sooner turned my horses head to see if that was what they wished Chan we received a shower of boomerangs, accom Danied by a fearful yelL They then commenced

lumping, dancing, yeuuue. ana snowing tnejr.arms in all sorts of postures, uke so many fiends, anq setting fire to the, grass. I could: now. see maw othen getting up from behind the- bushes; atJui felt unwilling to. fire upon them, and tried to make them uhder8tahd'that w,$ wisled to do them no harm. They now came within 40 yards erf us, and acuinu^cW A^wge, throwing their boomerangs, whioh eame whistling and whfcdng past our ears. One spear struck my hone. I then gave orden to fire, which staged their mad career for a ntuev Our. packhorses which were before us took fright when they heard the firing and fearful yeJUnti and mane off for the creek. Seeing tke 'bucks iwmmg from bush to bush with the. mterttian of cutting us off from them, while' those in front were ttill yelling, throwing then* boomerangs and coming nearer to us, fjaVo thonj another reception, and sent Ben after tho hones to drive them to a more favourable place, while Kekwick and I remained to cover our. rear. We -soon got in advance of our enemies, but they still kept following beyond the reach of our guns; the. fo&iful yelling cpritinuinp; aAofijr^ springing In every direction; aijd it being now quite dark, with the country saiftfty, and our enemis numerous, bold, apd daring we could easily be surrounded and destroyed by such determined fcJloHa as. they have shown themselves to be. Seeing there is no chance with such fearful odtla ajjamsj us (10 to 1), and knowing the ttisaq vantooca under which we laboured, I very! unwillingly made up my cund to push op, to last night's camp, which we did. Now. I hare considered the matter over I do not th&k it prudent to remain here to-night. 1 shall there fore continue my journey until reaching the open grassy plain on mira'cteek. They still keep following us! I only wish 1 h?A four other men; my party beinffRo'smaJl fcb can only fall back and act on. tUe acfenstvt. If I were to stand and fight them our horses must remain unprotected, and we In all probability cut off from them, which they seem' to be aiming at, and prevent op* advance, up the creek. By this thnetluy must Jmow.that we ttq not care for them. Arrived: at Haywarct's Creeic at II o'clock. Wednesday, June ST.— Hayward's Creek. Last night it wat my intention to have gone this mom Sg to Kekwick's Ponds, to water the horses, give them tbjs day to rest, and to have proceeded the

S55M«bsck to J*e bnge creek,, and go on to the diMBnaWthaPI was rte*rini foT^on tbe 25th instant; but after e)j«sJd*ring the. matter ovet; I have mort rehtctanthr comelo the determuution of aboAdoning the attempt to make the Gulf of Carpentaria, as being mo* imprudent, situated as I am, and my party oemg too small to cope with such wily, determined natives as those we have just encountered. Their arrangements and manner of attack were at well conducted and planned as Europeans cpuld do it. ' ttey owervea t»- pa»Uio in }be,tnorhing« exatninecT'our tracks to see which pr 'w^hWjone,'- knew' we teiddget 'no, water . etown the cree^^ano most re^utin to.get it; to thus 'in ddublc coluintt open order, and we'hJuTtp take stes^.aim.to.make i,an UnMreanon. .WiSsuch as these for enemies, it would be dcsmicuon to all my partr fotnM to-attemrt togo on*, and s all the infornuitidn of ihe interior that I have already obtained would be lost having. only half rations for sit months (Jour of which are already gone), and my men complaining of weakness from short rations; and -unahle to berfomr what they ought to do. and my ^eahh 'being , to bad. that I am acaroely able to' sitin the saddle the whole day. After considering all these obstacles. I think it would be madness and folly to risk more. If my life would be the'o&Iv sacrifice, I would willinvly si*m it to fuseamnliah the end that I aimed at: but.

it seems i am not w omain n, aian propoBca-wu» Qod diapotes, and H& will mutt be obeyed.. .Only twoshowenof ram have fallen' since March; I un afraid of the water drying up to the. touth. [ fully expected rain at this time, but not a drop has come. .The 'days now are very hot The feed, for the hones' is 'at dry 'as if it bad been the middle of summer. Theatre mnch reduced in condition; so mnch to, that I am afraid of tbt&i being lodger than one night without water. Seeing there are signal-smokes around, and judging . *h«fc our black playing a double part with us, I gave them a wide berth, and atetfred for Bishop's Creek, where |we arrived in the afternoon. No natives have beeu here since we left; ' Ther teem to be very nume rous, judging from the number of graves (which are in trees) that we?Have passed between this and the large creek where they made their attack upon us. These natives have quite a different cast of features from those in the east; they have neither the broad flat nose, large mouth, nor the projecting eyebrows, but more of the Malay. Ther are tall, muscular, well-made men; and I think must have seen or encountered white men before. Thursday. June 88.— Bishop's Creek. Camped at the rocky waterhole, north-east side of the McDouaU Bange. Friday, June 2ft. —Anderson's Creek. 'Crossed the McDqnall- Range, and camped on a taun creek north-east side of tbe Murchison Banges, which I have named Gilbert's Creek, after Thomas Gilbert; Esq., late Colonial Storekeeper. Satardav, June 301-Gilbert's Creek. Crossed the Murchison Banges and the large gum creek coming from them and running west-north-west which I have named Baker's Creek, after the Hon. John Baker. M.L.C. I did not examine it but judging from its appearance and the native smoke, I should think there is water in it Proceeded to the creek where we camped before, and found all the water gone but a little moisture in the bottom of the holes. At this I was rather surprised, as I thought it would but at least three months. Went to another creek, where there was a large hole of water in a conglomerate rock. This we found also to be much reduced. When we last saw it its depth was four feet now it is only eighteen incites. Camped. [To be continued.)

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