THIS attractive outfit is sketched from a Schiaparelli model. The quaint waisted jacket is of coral wool. It has a new flared basque jutting out at the back. The skirt of coral wool is slim-fitting.
* OVER a crepe dress in two tones of brown is worn a full jacket, finger-tip length, of moss-green velveteen. The piquant little hat accompany- ing it is also of moss-green
* SHEER black wool or crepe for this afternoon dress with draped bodice and sleeves. A long scarf of yellow crepe loops through the belt, and is caught to the hem underneath.
*TWO bias strips of nigger-
brown velvet are threaded through gathered slots on the collar and belt of this pink crepe dress. They finish in simple, pointed ends at neck
*VELVETEEN and wool, red and bright navy, are two new
combinations seen in this suit.
The red velveteen jacket is edged with blue braid. The wool skirt has four gores.
Suggestions for Your First Autumn Ensemble!
Cream of Coming Season's Wardrobe Wisdom
YOUR first cold-weather pur-
chase should be chosen with an eye on your winter wardrobe. If it is a dress you will wish to wear it later under your winter coat.
If it is a suit, you will want the acces- sories to go with other things later on. Therefore, before you make up your mind, decide upon your winter color
Dresses follow two trends—the first is military and suits only the young and slim. Here you see one-piece frocks like a military uniform, slim and tail- ored, with high, stiff collars, braided epaulets, braided or velvet frogs up and down the front of the bodice, yoke trimmed with yards and yards of black soutache braid, shoulders rather square, sleeves straight, skirts slim and straight.
These dresses can be in two pieces, the hip-length jumper looking like a military jacket.
Black, in dull heavy crepe or sheer wool, will be favored for these dresses. Their color contrasts are mili- tary-red and hussar-blue for belts, col- lars or braid trimming.
Gold buttons in the shape of gold franc pieces or gold crowns will be fash- ionable fastenings. Black astrachan is the most popular trimming after braid.
The second type of frock is more in- tricate in cut, but additionally becoming and very feminine. Draped bodices, high necklines, slim skirts, or skirts with all the fullness centre-front, wrapped skirts. Drapery and shirring is handled to give straight lines. There are pleats, usually in the centre-front.
Full sleeves, big at the wrists and caught into a band, wide at the arm- hole and narrowing towards the wrist, pleated or shirred into the armhole will also be features of this type of frock.
WHEN the skirt is draped across, the
hips are slightly lower than the present mode, but the majority of dresses have wide belts which are placed high.
Necks finish with little standing col- lars or twisted yokes and scarves of the fabric.
Belts are of gold chain, gold kid, em- broidery in bright wools on crepe, of velveteen and velvet, and of colored leather.
Lacing is a favorite fastening—at the neck, back and front, at both sides of
the skirt or bodice, laces of cord, crepe, or velvet in a contrasting color to the
Jewelled ornaments are attached to day dresses in the shape of clips, buckles and buttons. Gold is a popular accessory color to black frocks—for belts, buttons and jewellery.
AMONG materials will be dull crepes
with rough, crinkled surfaces, silky- haired surfaced woollens, sheer wools, all soft and easy to drape, shirr, or tailor.
Dull satins will be used for late after- noon frocks, velveteen for any hour of the day, velvet for "dressy" frocks.
Wools have flecks and patterns in bright colors if they are sombre, with shiny or white hairs if they are bright.
A combination of two fabrics in a dress is good, such as wool and satin, wool and velvet, wool and velveteen, crepe and velveteen, or crepe and wool.
Browns, tan to dark nigger, every pos- sible shade of green, bright royal-blue, red—from darkest wine to bright coral— will also be worn. You may mix two colors in your frock, contrasting belt or scarf, gloves or hat.
A BLACK wool jersey dress, with
softly draped fullness twisted across the bosom, brought over one shoulder, and allowed to fall back, can be worn with bright yellow gloves or with a royal-blue hat and black gloves.
There are several styles for suits— trim military jackets, with high col-
lars and closing up the front with frogs, Louis XIV suits, with skirts and jackets kicking into flares centre-back, suits with tailored, fitted jackets, little velvet collars, braid-bound edges, double or single-breasted. Skirts are straight and slim, with low pleats or a wrap-over. They must be short—twelve to fourteen inches from the ground.
Sleeves are always plain in suits.
Wools and velveteen are suit fabrics, and the jacket and skirt often contrast, such as a deep red wool skirt and emerald wool jacket, black wool skirt and coral velveteen jacket, brown skirt and mustard jacket, cornflower-blue skirt and ruby-red jacket.
A coat, jacket or cape over a crepe dress is a good autumn ensemble. They are made of wool or velveteen.
Full-length coats are slim-fitting and button centre-front. Fingertip-length jackets have full backs and fronts and big sleeves. They can be smocked or shirred at the shoulders to give fullness. Capes can be any length from the waist
to the hem of the dress.
Two colors are again used—such as a royal-blue coat or loose jacket over a Chinese vermilion-red dress, an emerald-green wool coat over a dark red dress, a yellow velveteen jacket over a black dress, a moss-green wool cape over a tan dress, hunter's-green jacket and yellow dress, slate-blue jacket, and