1745, English, Object edition: Brooch 'en tremblant' made in France or England.

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Brooch 'en tremblant' made in France or England
 
Bookmark: http://trove.nla.gov.au/version/172441937
Physical Description
  • Brooches
  • Jewellery
Published
  • 1745-1785
Language
  • English

Edition details

Title
  • Brooch 'en tremblant' made in France or England.
Published
  • 1745-1785
Physical Description
  • Brooches
  • Jewellery
Subjects
Summary
  • Brooch, 'en tremblant', comprising detachable floral sprays (2), topaz /​ silver /​ brass alloy, maker unknown, France or England, c. 1750-1780 Two part ribbon-tied floral spray brooch set with yellow topaz and white pastes in foiled silver and metal closed back settings. The flowers are mounted 'en tremblant' with wire springs. Brooch detaches into two floral sprays and can be worn on the bodice and in the hair. Made in France or England, 1750-1780. Housed in modern leather jewellery box.
Notes
  • No marks on brooch. Box is stamped inside with 'Anne Schofield /​ Antiques'
  • The brooch consists of two ribbon-tied floral sprays that can detach and be worn on the bodice of a gown and in the hair. A notable feature of the brooch is the wire coiled spring mount that allows the brooch to 'tremble' as the wearer moves. The trembler ornament developed out of jewels with pendant elements that also moved, but the trembler and the floral sprig motif are particularly associated with the 18th century fashion for naturalistic effects. The asymmetrical design of the floral spray echo the meandering lines of rococo silk and embroidery fashionable in dress from about 1740 to 1780. Although the individual stones are not of great intrinsic value, the brooch was probably made for an affluent and aristocratic market. The wearing of jewelled floral sprays is documented in contemporary portraiture and was a popular fashion at court. In a description of an English wedding costume of 1756, a note is made of 'shaking sprigs of brilliants for her hair' (Mrs Delany, Autobiography and Correspondence, vol.11, ed. Lady Llanover, 1861-2, p.147, quoted in Tait page 212) and at wedding in 1761 Queen Charlotte wore "Diamond Sprigs of Flowers in her Sleeves and to clasp her robe...' (Duchess of Northumberland, Diaries of a Duchess, quoted Buck 1979 page 14). During the 1700s there was a steady development in the field of gem-cutting and setting, in particular a greatly increased accuracy of cutting techniques and variety of cuts. The brooch has a closed back setting, which means that the lower part of the gemstones is entirely encased in the setting, leaving only the upper part of the stone visible. Later in the century, jewelers developed an open back setting. Paste, the glass compound invented to imitate precious stones, dates back to antiquity and was produced in quantity in the 18th century. The alternative name for paste is 'strass' or 'stras' and commemorates the inventor of 18th century paste, Georges Frederick Strass. Both fashionable men and women wore paste jewellery; this brooch complements a collection of 18th century shoe buckles in the Powerhouse Museum. Ref Buck, A, 'Dress in Eighteenth Century England', London, 1979. Flower, Margaret, 'Victorian Jewellery', Cassell and Co., London, 1951. Tait, Hugh (ed) 'The Art of the Jeweller, A Catalogue of the Hull Grundy Gift to the British Museum: Jewellery, Engraved Gems and Goldsmiths'Work', British Museum, 1980. L Mitchell
Language
  • English
Image Number
  • 11760
  • 2514
  • 2003/​10/​1

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Powerhouse Museum. Exhibitions and Programs. Open to the public Object English
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e.g. test cricket, Perth (WA), "Parkes, Henry"

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