Horsham Times (Vic. : 1882 - 1954), Tuesday 5 November 1889, page 2


,.eweset Fashions. Jettiogs About Gown', Wisps, iJackets ui ,nn.ssj, 0 'nn -sal Jewellery. Omeas a ve much revived and are bt liked when set in hivy gold wie. The handsomest of ne lookets are of pink coral, with a diamond or big pearl in the centre. The newest lace-ping have enamel fruit in natural colors mounted upon gold or silver fligree. Cloth powdered with silk applique in wreath and bouquets is a new and very handsome trimming stuff. Cream wool sparely dashed and splashed with a bright color will be the favorite stuff for summer tennis gown., Scafs of silk or lace are worn either loose over the shoulders or else knitted low upon the bust with long hanging ends. Many of the new woollens come in three sorts, striped, checked and plain, all of which will be used in the same costume. Alpaca is likely to be a favorite stuff this spring. It comes plain, in stripes and with flower and lace patterns printed over it. Golden garter clasps richly chased and set with diamond, ruby or torquoise are among the things one may buy for his own womanfolk. Boarders and brocades are the features of the newest woollens. In most of them the flower pattern is thrown up from a heavily twilled surface. Three rows of ribbon or lace insertion of a contrasting color, set above a two-inch hem, is a favorite finish for draperies of either silk or wool. Mixed stuffs of silk and wool look and wear well, but those of cotton will be a torment and disappointment to whoso spends timi and money upon them. " Rubies are more than ever in the fashion. A particularly stylish use of them is to have a double row set atop one of the new high tortoieeshell combs. The pelissereappears in force in the spriqg importations, and nowhas sleeves full forty inches wide at the top and gathered'into enormous puffs at the armhole. About the quantiest of the new old styles is that showing a full plain skirt fully gathered to a short waist, with wide revere, skin-tight sleeves and stomaohes of gathered muslin. For summer, fashion allows a loop of cord upon the parasol to swing it over the arm, and decrees that the'bow at the top shall be wider, loopier and more pronounced than ever. Black silk, like the poor, we have always with us; but it is just as well to know that brocades divide honors with the standard gros grain and faille and are far and awry mre stylish than the satin-suzrfaed:pss ds sole. / There are more new cashmeres than ever name out of Cashmere itself. The Thetan has upstanding hairs all over it; the Kangra is in cheviot weaving. Armure has fancy weaving of another color, and melange is specked and splashed with white. A very distingue wrap is the long redingoet of rich black silk, with loose fronts, either falling straight to the feet or else slightly draped on the left hip, and lined throughout with lighter silk of almond green, pearl gray or rose color. The so-sllUed Greek polonaise is a princess garment cut full upon the light shoulder and draped acros slightly below theleft hip. The back falls quite straight and at front there are breadths reaching from the belt to the foot under the polonaise. Moueselin delain with very deep borders will take the place of nnm's-veiling in this summer's gowns. The bordered stuff makes the skirt that is either open at one side to show the underskirt or else lightly held together with gimp or frogs of braid. Fleshy women are dressmakers' terrors. Nearly ai fasiions are devised with slender women in view, and when applied to fat women, without due discriminatlon, makes of them nightmares. One can drape-arthin woman to give her the curres and dimpled lines of a. developed form. But rare is the woman who can overcome the ponderosity of flesh. With the broad-busted corsets and sixteen boned waists, the same bodice which the slender woman wears, strained till it fits like eelskin, is buttoned over the fat woman and makes her look fatter than she is. Not one woman of two hundred pounds in four dozen knows how to bring out the dignity which is possible to soon a figure. A fat woman in the usualplain, long-habit bodice is always less well clothed than she ought to be; sometimes, if she draws her corset-lacings too tight, she is an object which, in plain Engliso, is disgusting. Half the troubles of flesh arise from treating it are diametri. cally opposite tc the right one. The fleshy woman, when she observes that her waist measure is growing larger, sets her foot down commonly as resolutely as she may against such an undesirable progression. Sue buys the stiffest stays warranted " unbreakable," in the market, and when the modiste fits her, two attendants lay their hands on the rebellious flesh and put and squeeze it together until it makes great pro. tuberance above and below, and a groaning, equeaking, machine-confined area between. Now the fat woman makes a mistake when one discloses to a non-sympathetic world just how stout she has become. That is a little matter which is her own secret, and one she should guard sedulously. The woman of perfect form is the only one who can afford, for esthetic reasons, to display her figure in the close-fitting polonaise or basque. The woman whose figure is too full should treat it exactly as does she whose slenderness is too fragile-disguise it with long, rather loose, lines. To come to details, the stout woman should shun the short waist, or Josephine bodice, as she would the plague. She should never yield to the seductions of a belt or girdle, She should never wear a barque or any garment that makes a break at tne waist all the way round. The gown which gives her repose, dignity, and almost grace, is the gown which gives you her fignre at one sweep, adding to her apparent height and taking the eye off her girth, making the proportions better. She wants the longest lines she can get and the most graceful curves. She should avoid anything that breaks up her attire into parts, leading the eye to study her in detail. She wants to be an imposing whole, with the presence as attractive in its way as that of the smaller woman. The tea-gown is the first gown in years which shows her her opportunity. The tea-gown itself does not suit her, but is very generally built on the model of a loose fronted princess robe, and some modification of the princess gown is the stout woman's fit attire.