Inquirer and Commercial News (Perth, WA : 1855 - 1901), Wednesday 26 July 1865, page 3


CAMDEN HARBOUR.

The following interesting Reports from Mr Sholl, Government Resident at Port Camden, have been obligingly forwarded to us for publication : — Government Resident's Office, Port Camden, May 20, 1865. SIR, — I have the honor to inform you that the Jeanie Oswald, of Melbourne, arrived at this port on the 10th inst., with 5 cabin passengers, 40 horses, 60

sheep, 2 cows, some dogs, goats, and poultry. Of the passengers, three proceed to Sourabaya with the vessel, and all the stock except one male. The vessel will sail, I am informed, to-morrow morning, and by her I shall forward a small mail. His Excellency the Governor will be glad to hear that since the departure of the Tien Tsin on the 20th March, the general health of the camp has been good; I, however, regret to report one death, tbe native constable Jimba having died from disease- of the lungs on the 17th inst. He was buried at Sheep Island on the following day. He had been ailing for some time, and his death was long expected. It ap pears that he was thrown from a horse some time ago, and received a blow on the left breast, causing serious injury at tbe time ; subsequently, while a prisoner at Rottnest, he received a blow in the same part of his body, and was again very ill. During the early days of our stay in this place he complained of cough, which was treated with simple remedies, but the disease assumed a more aggravated form, and after enduring much agony, he expired. The other mem-bers of our party have had excellent health. We have not had a case of fever, slight diarrhoea, coughs, and ophthalmia, of a mild type, being the only complaints. The festering sores, boils, &c., of which I took note iu my letter of the 17th March, dis appeared upon the approach of cooler weather. The case of the pensioner referred to in my former letter, has resulted favourably, thanks to Mr Chamberlain's incessant attention. Mortification took place, and it was necessary to remove a large piece of the dead flesh. The wound is now nearly healed, and the patient able to move about with the aid of crutches. Taking into consideration the heat of the climate and the nature of the food we, as a matter of course, have to consume, the result is as surprising as satisfactory. In the camp occupied by the members of the late Camden Harbour Association (for it no longer exists, the property having been equally divided) there has been more sickness, febrile diseases, as might be expected from the situation, being prevalent. I regret to state that Mr Meaden, one of the principal members of the late Association, yesterday fell a victim to fever of a typhoid character, after a few day's illness. He was buried at Association Camp yesterday afternoon at 4 p.m., having died on the morning of the same day at 6 a.m. My chief source of anxiety, and my first care, after the departure of the Tien Tsin, was the supply of water. In my letter of the 17th March I stated that we were sinking a well in the camp, - and that should that fail, I would deepen the water-holes and form tanks, while, as a dernier ressort, a raft would be con structed, and water brought from Augustus Island. As early as the 22nd March it became apparent that unless we had a heavy fall of rain, our water-holes would not supply the party for more than a fortnight or three weeks. Finding that no rain had fallen up to the 28th of the month, and. that the sinking of the well through almost solid rock was too slow a process with our indifferent boring tools, I had that work suspended, after the men had got down about 12 feet, and set a party to work at tbe base of a hill some fifty yards in the rear of the water-holes, and where; in the cavity of the rocks, there was some water apparently supplied by a spring. A very few days' work convinced me that we should obtain a good supply of water, but in the meantime casks were

collected, and a raft could have been framed in a few hours. The well, or rather cistern - for it was not deeper than 6 feet, and about the same length and breadth - was completed on the 13th of April, the last mass of rock having been blasted on the previous day. Three days elapsed before it was full and since that time, though our daily consumption exceeds 200 gallons— the stock can get water a short distance from the camp - it is overflowing each morning. The water is of excellent quality. The well has been roughly roofed over, and a stone wall placed round it to keep away horses and dogs. Since the arrival of the Jeanie Oswald, we have supplied her with sufficient water for daily consump-tion — and she has 26 horses on board. An attempt was made to water the ship for consumption on her voyage, but the removal of 800 gallons in one day so reduced our quantity, that I had to stop the supply and limit the quantity to four hogsheads one day and two the next. They got the remainder from Augustus Island. We have had no intercourse with the natives at our camp, but they have visited us without our knowledge, and certainly without our consent. On the morning of the 23rd March a boat, the property of Assistant Surveyor Gowie, was reported missing. It was found that the rope by which she was moored was cut through by apparently a sharper instrument , than we supposed the natives to possess. We did not suspect them, but thought it was done by some white man. Every enquiry was made, but no clue could be obtained. Tbe sentry stated that, he thought he heard the dash of oars in the distance at about 12 or 1 o'clock on that night, and in the direction of another encampment. The Government boat was sent to Augustus Island, Mr T.C. Sholl being in charge. He was directed to examine the -various inlets and mangrove creeks, in case the boat might have been concealed in that direction. He reported on his return, that he proceeded through Rogers' Straits, where the current was so strong that notwithstanding a fair breeze of moderate strength and three oars out, it was as much as they could do to hold their own until the tide changed. Landing at the watering place on Augustus Island, they went up the ravine through which tbe stream passes, and halted to light a fire and make tea. They were disturbed by a large stone crashing among the trees, and which had been thrown from -the height above them. At the same time the natives commenced to coo-ee in all directions. They went towards the boat and shouted in reply, when some eight or nine natives appeared on the crest of the hill; one of them, braver than the rest, came down— a fine-looking man, about 6 feet high, black as ebony, and with a skin tbat shone in the sun. He was armed with a spear and a club. His hair was dressed differently from the others, and he seemed to be one in authority, he came forward with friendly tones and gestures. They were in the boat at the time, and brought it towards the shore, but when they did -this the native retreated, but leisurely — not in fear. The boat party threw him some odds and ends which were in the boat and also a piece of damper, which he picked up as the boat put off. Thinking this would be a good opportunity to open communication with the natives, I proceeded next day to the spot. As we came close to the island and shouted, the natives responded, but when we landed they would neither answer us, nor could we see them. After being on shore about an hour, I had a small looking glass and other presents tied to the mangroves, and went away. As we were going off, we saw two or three on the top of the hill (about 100 feet high, almost precipitous), one of whom was seated on a rock, as motionless as if he were a bit of carved marble. We coo-eed, but they did not reply until we were fairly off, and then the whole island seemed alive, shouts near and distant being heard in all directions. Three times since then have I attempted to meet with them, but that was the only opportunity I have had of ever seeing an aboriginal inhabitant of North-West Australia. Some of the settlers, however, saw the looking-glass in the possession of one of them ; so the presents reached their intended destination. Ou the night of the 30th March the sentry woke me, saying that the Government boat was moving from her moorings, and asked whether he should fire. At first I refused permission, but seeing the boat drifting away, and knowing how essential it was to us, especially at this time, when our supply of water was failing, and it was possible that we might have to depend upon the boat for towing the water-raft from Augustus Island, I, with regret, gave the order to fire. Several rounds were fired by the guard ; something was seen to go through the water to a point of land some fifty yards from where the boat then was, and tbe boat itself ceased to move. We attempted to haul in the surf-boat, but this was a work of time, one of the ropes having been cut, aud it was necessary to swim out to her. I sent Corporal Benson in the surf-boat to recover the pinnace, and when she was brought back, sent Benson to visit the settlers' camps, while I went to examine the neigh bouring creek. Neither party were successful in ascertaining what persons had attempted the act, nor in what manner they had done so. The next morn ing, however, the native constable Billy reported that he had seen the tracks of many natives around the camp, and he showed where two parties tad gone along the beach — one towards the dingy, and the other towards tbe pinnace. We had nearly lost both boats, and had the dingy been moored out in ordi nary manner, she must have gone, but the double rope saved her. This, as well as the chain and anchor of the pinnace, was beyond their calculation. They had evidently, finding the chain could not be cut through, walked under the water, carrying the anchor, and occasionally rising to the surface to get air, for their tracks were plain, aud the tide was too high to allow of their heads being above water. The anchor was down when the boat was recovered, and there was no appearance of any one having got inside the boat. Everything had been arranged carefully and noiselessly, and great credit is due to the sentry — Dunlop — for his vigilance on the occasion, as the night was dark, and the movement of the. boat could have been scarcely perceptible. There could now be no doubt what had become of Mr Cowle's boat ; so immediately after breakfast I dispatched the pinnace on a three days' cruise among tbe islands, placing Mr Cowle in charge, and sending with him P.C. Gee, the native assistaut Billy, and two hands. On the night of the 3rd April Mr Cowle returned with the missing boat. He had proceeded through Rogers' Straits, out at the entrance of Port George the Fourth, in again by the heads of Brecknock Harbor, and it was while coasting along the south shore of Augustus Island, and while in the strait dividing that island from Brecknock Island, that he saw and recovered his boat. About a mile above the watering place he saw a native, who, making signs that the party must not fire, came to the boat and stood about twenty yards off. He was unarmed. Billy landed and shook hands with him, and the native seemed much gratified and amused with Billy's appearance. He laughed vociferously, took off Billy's cap, felt his body and limbs, pulled his hair and beard; and looked into his mouth, carefully examining 'his teeth. In reply to signs respecting the missing boat he pointed iu the opposite direction to which they were going, or in the direction of the camp. Leaving the native, they passed the watering place, and about a mile to tbe S.E. saw the boat paddled by natives. They gave chase and got what they were looking for among some mangroves,' the natives jumping out with such expedition, that they left their paddles and some headless spears behind them. The spear heads — arrow-shaped, and made of quartz and glass— were not found for some time after. The spears were clumsy and heavy; the paddles were made of light wood, and, taking into consideration the tools at the disposal of the natives, not badly made. The boat was uninjured. They did not appreciate the value of the rudder, and converted it into another seat, having nailed it (they had stolen nails among other articles from the people who landed from the ' Stag') to two thwarts. When the party went off with the boat native coo-ees were heard far and near. During the night of the 21st April a boat was stolen from a person named Anderson, who is living near the 'Calliance' wreck. That boat has not yet been recovered. It was seen by a watering party from the "Jeanie Oswald" on the 19th instant near Augustus Island. Some natives were on board, using paddles. Encumbered by their water casks, the sailors could not go in chase. Directly I heard the news I despatched Corporal Benson in the dingy, desiring him to anchor during the night, and make search, at daylight. He returned the next day, after a fruitless hunt. The owner of the boat went with him and two other men. When I last had the honor of addressing you, I stated my intention, soon after the departure of the'

"Tien Tsin", of striving to penetrate the country south of the Glenelg, and in the direction of Roeback Bay. Until I was certain of the safety of the camp, and satisfied that there would be no failure of the water-supply, I could not leave; but those matters being satisfactorily settled, I made arrangements for our departure, and left camp on the 10th of April. Our party consisted of Mr. Assistant Surveyor; CowIe, who accompanied us for the purpose of defining our position, so that our course might be laid down correctly on the general map; P.C. Jackaman, native constable Billy, and chainer Graham. We had 5 saddle and 3 pack-horses. Messrs. Mc'Rae, Hind- . haugh, and Hick, three of the settlers, accompanied us, with 3 saddle and one pack-horse. The party were all well armed, and we took provisions for one month, though it was not my intention to remain out more than three weeks, unless unforeseen delays should occur. We took a south-easterly direction to the Glenelg, which we reached on the 12th April. About half a mile south of the river I formed my first depot, and from thence, with lightly--equipped parties, we attempted to force our way through the sandstone ranges. On the 13th we crossed the eastern end of the Wheatley Range, and tried all day to get south, but after passing over some of the roughest country I had ever seen, and following every valley which appeared practicable, we were unable to make more than 3 or 4 miles due south, and returned to depot satisfied that nothing could be done in that direction, On the 14th we started with fresh horses, the others having received many cuts and bruises among the sandstones, and passed round the western end of the Wheafley Range, and after toiling through country of a description similar to that passed over in the preceding day, got upon a small tract of sandy table-land, and were able to pursue our course. After an hour's tramp, we came to a river, flowing towards the Glenelg, with rocky cliffs on eitherside. From bank to bank the distance was 82 yards, but the actual stream of water did not exceed in width 15 or 20 yards. This river I propose, with His Excellency's permission, to same the McRae, after one of the gentlemen who accompanied us, and whose services were of much value to the expedition. One of the horses not being in a condition to travel, we had to return, not having got further than four miles direct south of the depot, but with every prospect of being able to follow our course. The two days' journey satisfied us that we were situated on a rocky peninsula, from which we could not get clear, without recrossing the Glenelg, except by proceeding to the southward and westward. Resting on Saturday, the 15th, and Sunday, the 16th. April, westarted on the 17th, with three days' provisions, and finding an easier path 'through the Wheatley Range to the westward of a detached hill it the 'eastern point, we passed over more practicable country than before, but one -of the horses losing a shoe, it. became necessary to halt at a spot about a ijuarter of a mile from our furthest on Friday. The horse was sent back .to depot and shod, but Billy eould not return with it until night, so we were forced to remain untilthe 18th. : On this day. we steered a course generally to the westward of south- following up the McRae River, which we crossed aad recrossed several times. This river was rock-bound, and it was to avoid the hills, some of them precipitous, that we were compelled to cross so frequently. We camped at night near the source of tbe McRae, in latitude IGdeg. south, and about 19 miles from our depot. Much of the country passed over was rugged, bnt there were occasional patches of table-land. I determined to remove my depot to within a mile or two of this place, and on the 19th we retraced our steps, arriving ia camp at sundown. Rested the horses on the 20th, and on the 2 1st the whole party moved on and camped at night on the right bank ofthe McRae. Our horses are continually losing their shoes, and our supply of nails being limited, our travels must soon be at an end. Messrs. McRae and Hindhaugh, the only shoers in the party were kept constantly employed. On the 22nd we formed depot No. 2. On the 23rd (Sunday) we rested. Started on the 24th, and pass ing our camp of the 18th, began to descend the range. At the highest point we ascended a hill, and looking south, saw that there were three ranges in our course, the highest being about 25 miles distant and the lowest 5 miles. A hill which we then took to be the Red Conical Hill, near Doubtful Bay, was seen about 9 miles away, bearing W. by N.; Mount Lyell, E. by N. half N., 20 miles; Mount Double Cone, N.W. by S., 25 miles. Followed a rivulet trending south for about 2 miles, when our further progress was stopped by impassable rocks. Mr Hindhaugh reported after going ahead on foot, that the stream was joined by a larger one, and that the united waters ran to the westward. We returned towards tbe depot, intending to take a westerly course from that point, and afterwards get southing ; bnt on our way the last horse-shoe nail was expended, and as we were losing on an average a shoe a day, and a shoeless horse in these ranges being equal to an unserviceable if not a lost horse, I determined, with much regret, to return to camp. We accord ingly retraced our steps, and arrived at Camden Harbor on the 28th, losing three more shoes en route. I will forward my journal by the first opportunity, and you will be better able to judge of the country passed over by reading the details of our daily work than from the necessarily brief account which I now give. I may state, generally, that from Camden Harbor to the Glenelg the country, after passing over a few stony hills in the immediate vicinity of our camp, is undulating, with stony, gravelly and sometimes rocky soiL On the borders of the numerous streams there is alluvial land. There is grass everywhere, and of every description, upon the hills, in the valleys, and even upon tbe tops of the sandstone ranges. I saw very little spinifex, and then only among the other wise bare rocks on the summits of the highest hills south of the Glenelg. We passed through the Hampton Downs, which are all they have been repre sented. Much of the grass in these downs is kangaroo-grass; and it is generally of a great height and often a thick sward. There is no undergrowth of brushwood— nothing but grass — good, bad, or indifferent — there it is. I never travelled through as much grass in Western Australia as I have seen between this place and tbe Glenelg. The whole of the country north or south of the Glenelg is lightly timbered. None of the trees, except the baobab — and they are few and far between — are of any girth— the largest white gums not exceeding 18 inches diameter. The trees consist principally of eucalyptus (several varieties), cajeputi, cotton-tree, cork-tree, banksia (south of the Glenelg), box, and, among the ranges, several fruit-trees, which I cannot now describe. I can only say that the flavor of most of the fruits was abominable. We saw a few pines among the sandstones, but they were of slight girth. There were few trees fitted for any other purpose than firewood, and most of the timber for building and even for fencing will have to be imported. The country was well watered, creeks and rivulets every two or three miles, and most of them with running water. We had no rain during the time we were out, and there was consequently a marked difference between the appearance of the streams on our outward and homeward journeys. There were no indications of gold on our route, except at a spot 5 miles from this, where it was remarked that the country very much resembled Creswick, in Victoria, by two persons who had been there. It was undulating country, covered with broken quartz and iron-stone gravel. It was delightfully cool, especially while we were in tbe sandstone ranges. Our greatest elevation was about 3,000 feet above the sea level. From the time we left the Glenelg until we commenced descending the ranges on the 24th April, we were going up hill, though gradually and imperceptibly, on the table-land. We were much troubled, by mosquitoes at all our halting places north of the Glenelg, and at our first depot, but there were none when we commenced ascending the hills. We were, however, troubled by kangaroo-ticks in the ranges, winch tormented both man and beast. Game was very scarce; at least we did not see much, although there were plenty of tracks, espe-pecially of kangaroo and emus. One kangaroo, seven ducks, and a few cockatoos, were all we procured, though several of our party went out for the purpose of hunting. On the Glenelg spine fish were cangbt, but they were tasteless, and the skin was so tough, that they were named ''leather jackets.' We did not see a native fire or track, or any indi-cation whatever that they were in the neighbourhood, or had been there recently. As far as we went there was feed in abundance, as well as water, and should a fertile plain country be

found southward of the ranges, there is no impedi-ment to the driving of stock overland. With some little labor, a practicable route for carts might be made to the Glenelg, but south of oour first depot nothing on wheels could traverse. Upon my return I was glad to find that every thing had gone on well at the camp. The wooden storehouse had been finished and occupied; a; small piece of land had been fenced, cleared, and dug for a garden; seeds of every description had been sown, and many of them had germinated, the plants looking very healthy; the well had been completed, and was overflowing; the boats had been hauled up, repaired and painted ; the ovens and fireplaces (made of basalt, with pug cement) had been commenced, and the bushes around the camp thoroughly cleared off, and all rubbish which had been accumulating at tbe rear removed. I was much satisfied with the management of the camp and the conduct of all in it during my absence. At 10 a.m. on the morning after our return we received a visit from the Malays. Seven proas entered the harbour through Rogers' Straits, and there were about thirty canoes skimming over the water. They made towards our camp. I knew at once that they were trepang fishers, but having been warned that they occasionally do a little piracy, robbery, &c, I thought it advisable to make a demonstration of strength, and in all events be pre-pared for any emergency. Everyman in camp was ordered under arms, and the pensioners posted among the rocks at the landing-place and well under cover. I sent off the native Billy on horseback with a note to Mr Patterson, one of the settlers, telling him to have the people at Association Camp under arms, and, if necessary, come to our camp, for mutual assistance and protection. He came during the day., and said it would be inconvenient for them to move, but they required a few men as a protective force ; I, however, declined to weaken my camp. As the proas approached the Union Jack was hoisted, and our camp looked gay and bustling. Five of the proas drew up in line to the N.W., about five miles off; one of the others remained near Sheep Island, and the seventh anchored opposite the camp. Being anxious to know what they had on board, and especially to find out whether they had any cannon, I went on board the proa nearest to us. As we were starting a canoe came towards shore with five men; they were unarmed, but I did not care about allow ing them to land and spy out our weakness until I had first seen what they had on board. Went off with my son, p.c. Gee find Tompkinson, McLeod and Coffee— a volunteer crew. As we neared the proa I saw a small Dutch flag. It was placed on a bamboo and the bamboo stock into the thatched deck. We got a rope, after making signs that it was required, and were hauled astern. Getting alongside was a matter of difficulty, as bamboo projected in every direction. I went through a hole like a small window in the quarter, followed by my son and another, and we found ourselves in a den under the deck—over head there was a thatch made of reeds, and here there were about twenty Malays squatted down. Tbe men and cabin were dirty, and the smell very offensive. We seated ourselves like the Malays, and attempted to make ourselves understood by signs, for none of them spoke English. One, who seemed to be the captain, produced from a bamboo case a piece of paper, written — not printed. It was evidently a clearance in the Dutch language. It had been signed at three distinct dates— August and December 1864, and January 1865. It had an official stamp, with 'Macassar' round the rim. I had not my note-book with me, or I should have made a copy, of the document— and my endeavours .to induce -4he captain to come ashore with the document were unavailing. In this den there were only three old flint muskets, and I did not see any other arms not even a knife. My son, while we were engaged m the cabin, went over the vessel, and saw another flint musket, in tolerable order, and two of three rusty cannon of small calibre. I was therefore satisfied, so far as this proa was concerned, that no mischief could be done. I shook hands with the captain, and pointed to the boat's ensign, trying to show that we were friends. We gave them a little tobacco which we had with us, and my son gave the captain a penknife, but without the desired effect, for no sooner had we left the vessel than they lifted their auchor— made of wood, with a stone for a sinker, and with a cane cable — and hoisted their sail (a large mat apparently), and went towards the entrance of the harbour. As I did not know what the other proas contained, and there were upwards of 300 men in the canoes and proas, I deemed it pru-dent, during the time they remained, to have a watch every night; so I divided the camp into parties of seven and eight, and posted sentries round tbe camp. The watches were relieved every two hours, and every half hour each sentry called his number and 'All's welL' This did not continue many nights, for two proas left the following day, two more on the next day, and on the third day the remaining three took- their departure. They did not fish much while they were here, and came to blows with the natives, who drove them away from the watering place. I am told they are in the habit of stealing the natives. A Malay boy on board the Jeanie Oswald has seen several of these North Australians as slaves among the islands. Some of the Malays landed at the Calliance wreck, and bartered cocoa nuts for blocks, rope, &c. It was my intention to have gone again to the Glen-elg, but the arrival of the Malays, followed so closely by that of the Jeanie Oswald, together, (judging from the Melbourne papers) with the possible arrival of a ship or ships on account of the Denison Plains Company, warned me that I must not be away long from camp. So I shall send my son in charge of a small party, desiring him to follow tbe course which we should have pursued, had we not been compelled to return. Mr McRae, and probably other settlers, will accompany the party. . I fear there is not much prospect of settling this place from seaward, for although the country between this and the Glenelg is first-class, yet the large 100,000-acre blocks absorb the greater portion, and uniess land of the best description is at hand, or parties are satisfied that there is pastoral land to the southward of the ranges, I do not expect any one will remain. Still, in the event of immigration, and in anticipation of the ultimate settlement of the country by the extension of pastoral runs from the Southern Settlements, I have fixed upon a spot for the future town of Elliot. I made a more careful examination of the country round the camp of the "Calliance" seamen than I was able to do when I visited it with Mr Phelps. My success in obtaining water at our own camp, made me confident that in the lower land of Calli-ance Camp I should have no difficulty. Accordingly, after a very slight search, I found water in the immediate vicinity, and am certain that at the depth of ten or twelve feet from the surface it can be obtained anywhere on the proposed townsite. The landing is not so good as our own, and a ship could not anchor so near shore, but then the landing is better than any other (except this), and is not bad, while ships of large tonnage could lie much nearer than at Fremantle. Some of the ground is fitted tor gardens; there is plenty of stone adapted for building (no limestone there or in fact anywhere), and an outlet is atforded to the back country. Near the shore it is rocky, including the portion I saw with Mr Phelps but in a S.E. direction the land first becomes stony, and afterwards gravelly, with patches of red loam. The place is open to the prevailing winds, and, in the direction I have named free from mangrove swamps. I will have tbe outer boundaries defined as soon as possible, leaving its subdivision into allotments until there is some prospect of a demand. Mr Cowle will set about this work as soon as he has completed the survey of the harbour; upon which work he is at present engaged. The boundary of our camp has been marked, and the trees impeding a look-out seaward have been cutdown. The mason is employed making ovens and fire-places, and the carpenter in erecting a shed to work under. The landing place is in course of improvement, so as to admit of a cart being employed. Our garden is looking very well; most of the seeds have yielded plants, which seem healthy, especially the melon tribe. Nothing more has been done by the Association people; and could they have made terms with the master of the Jeanie Oswald, I have no doubt that the whole of them would have left Camden Harbour. We have not had much rain; the weather has been cooler, and the climate more endurable, but the generally slight difference of temperature, night and day, is a drawback The thermometer has ranged as high as 106deg. in my tent; once it was as low as 71deg.; the average for the past month has been about 85deg. However, whatever the ther-mometer may indicate, one thing is certain - that

we enjoy good health. Except in the neighbour-hood of mangroves, I believe every spot is healthy --even inland. I saw no tropical vegetation during my journey, and the porous soil and shadeless trees of Australia are of no small value in a sanitary point of view. I cannot speak too highly of the general conduct of those placed under my orders. I have very seldom to censure, and have only once had to inflict any punishment. Good order and good discipline prevails, and ground around the camp is kept as trim as a barrack-yard. Before I conclude, I may as well state that our few sheep, though healthy, do not gain flesh, but the contrary. They now run forty to fifty pounds. The horses are in good condition. Captain Devine, of the Jeanie Oswald, informs me that he considers the harbour the finest he has ever visited, and pronounces the holding ground to be good. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient Servant, ROBERT J. SHOLL, Government Resident To the Hon. the Colonial Secretary. Government Resident's Office, Camden Harbour, June 2, 1865. SIR, — I wrote by the Jeanie Oswald, which vessel sailed for Sourabaya on the 25th ultimo. I beg to enclose copy of that letter, and of tabular returns of receipts and expenditure, also forwarded per Jeanie Oswald. The necessary vouchers will be sent by a more safe mode of conveyance than the present— an open boat from Adam Bay, and bound for Fremantle. This boat — The Forlorn Hope — arrived at Cam-den Harbour on the 29th ultimo, having left Adam Bay on the 7th ultimo. She is schooner-rigged, 24 feet long, 5 feet beam, and a good sea boat. There were seven passengers: Mr -Stow, (one of the set-tlers, brother of the late Attorney-General for South Australia, and a Magistrate of that Colony); Messrs. Hamilton and McMinn, surveyors, and four labour-ers. They had a fine passage, so far as weather was concerned, but got upon the reefs near Cape Bou-gainville, when they broke their rudder, but happily did not otherwise damage the boat. The supply of provisions was practically exhausted the day before their arrival, for although, after landing, they dis-covered two tins of meat in the boat, they were not previously aware of the fact, and bad nothing to eat, except a little maienza. I proffered to Mr Stow and his two companions the rough accommodation of my tent, which they were good enough to accept, and ordered the store keeper to issue rations to the men during their stay in the harbour. They were without charts, and I spared copies of such as I had in duplicate, while Mr McMinn took tracings of others. A rudder, to replace that which was broken, a heavier anchor than the one they brought with them, and a binnacle lamp, were made in our camp. I therefore hope they will arrive safely, but at this season of the year the voyage is as hazardous as it is plucky. There being no Custom House at Adam Bay, Mr Stow did not bring a clearance. He will, however, take one from this place. Mr Hamilton took some photographic sketches of the camp, which are very good, taking into con sideration all disadvantageous circumstances. I do not send copies, because I fear that the mail-bag may become wet during the passage. Mr Hamilton will, however,, I have no doubt, be willing to furnish you with copies. They speak in disparaging terms of the manage ment of the settlement and of the choice of site. It is a matter respecting which I am not qualified, nor am I required to give, an opinion. That these gentle-men are dissatisfied, is proved by their undertaking so long a passage in an open boat. His Excellency will be glad to hear that the general health of the camp is good, and that the con-duct of everyone in it meets with my entire appro-bation. We celebrated the Queen's birthday as well as our means would allow. A small sum was raised, and prizes given for boat-racing, leaping, running, &c. The pensioners were paraded, and instead of the usual feu de joie — for we could not expend powder -- gave three cheers for the Queen, and one for His Excel-lency the Governor. The settlers from the Associa-tion Camp joined in the sports, and the day passed off very cheerfully. Mr Assistant Surveyor Cowle and myself rode to the proposed townsite, and the former gentleman fixed upon the line which is to form the western boundary. Tbe site will be defined as soon as the survey of the harbour is completed, which will be in the course of a few days. I stated in my letter of 20th ultimo, that I should send a small party south of the Glenelg to explore in a southerly direction from my second depot. The party will start on Monday, 5th instant, and consist of Mr T. C. Sholl, P.C. Gee, Joim Stainer and the native constable Billy. Mr McRae, a gentleman who accompanied our former expedition, will be one of the party. He is a thorough bushman, and will be a valuable addition to the explorers. Desiring to have the country explored between Camden Harbour and Doubtful Bay, I have requested Mr Cowle to command a lightly equipped party in that direction. He will cross the Glenelg at the lower rapids, and proceed as far as the Red Cone Hill, near the south-eastern shore of Doubtful Bay. Should he be successful, we shall have a correct notion of the country between Grey's eastern track and the sea-coast. Our furthest was rather further south than Grey's, our position being lat. 16deg. 2m., long. 124deg. 55m. The Red Cone Hill is still further south, and if neither of the parties about to explore do not get something beyond the points attained by their predecessors, it will prove that the ranges are difficult to penetrate, to say the least. Mr Cowle will not start until he has completed his surveys, or about the 17th instant. The party will consist of himself and three of the survey men. The supply of water in the well not being so great as formerly, I have set some men to work, sinking in the vicinity. They struck a spring immediately under the surface, and the water is running in strong. I have no misgivings, and believe we shall have plenty of water for several months, if not until the end of the dry season. Our garden is not flourishing, the continuing dry weather having affected the plants. We have not had rain for several weeks, and when I found the water sinking in the well, I would not allow any to be taken for the garden until the new well was com-pleted. Pig melon, pumpkin, and cotton look the most healthy — the other melons are dried up; French beans are in flower, but look yellow; potatoes grow up with long thin stalks, and will not come to per-fection. The carpenter's shop is nearly completed, and the landing-place has been much improved. The ovens and fire-places have also been completed. I have no additional information with; respect to the the settlers.. There has been one birth (the first in Camden Harbour) since I wrote to you, Mrs Pascoe, the wife of one of the settlers, having been delivered of a son on the 29th ultimo. The. weather has of late been very pleasant, and the nights are cooler than they have been since our arrival. The following is a register of temperature since the 20th ultimo: --8a.m. noon 4 p.m. 8 p.m. May 21 77 90 90 May 22 77 May 23 88½ 86½ 83 May 24 81½ 89 88 82 May 25 77½ 90½ 87½ 82 May 26 83 90 90 82 May 27 91 93 88½ May 28 78 87½ 91 82 May 29 78 90½ 91 81 May 30 83 87½ 86½ 82 May 31 80 88 88 80 June 1 79 87 82 June 2 75 88 Where there are blanks the register was not taken; I was otherwise engaged at the time. The nights are much cooler -- I should say ranging from 70 to 75. Our sheep and horses continue in good condition, the former holding their own. We have not more than twenty left. The grass and herbage present a parched appear-ance, and the beautiful green hills which we saw on landing, are now verging fast to brown. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your obedient Servant, ROBERT J. SHOLL, Government Resident, To the Hon. the Colonial Secretary.