Portland Guardian (Vic. : 1876 - 1953), Friday 1 March 1889, page 3


LADIES' COLUMN. (By Vtrv.) d .L'TCJX FASHION SIICWS. In Despite heat, dust, and north winds, the great dirapery emporiums are beginning to diepli.t the furs and gowns, bonnetruand cloaks. o with which womenktnd are to clothe theemelor during the autumn and winter, that at present, cecmes -ere far off. The customry autunui fashion sho?ew are now being hell, and are numerously attended, as all somen have cenme to regard these really beautifd displansaa somethmng quite too delhghtful tc be mis..el. 'This is to be a season of mantice.and the displa.r of eleotaks and e?ats in the prettly-orranged eelantlerrel of an estahbli thmen: I isital awe varied enough to suit :ell ipt?s and all igtres. Green is to be the Iltider colour Iear ·ee Ienerr of the reasn, and svetsethe most a.apovest trimming, anti many of tle ltadisome ekirt-length claks shown were of weit dark geen cloths. velvet-trimmned. A tart-leugth louble.breaeted cloteak of Lincoln-gren casel's hair had a freotr, everes, a high-etand:i collar, andei cuffs of rrelet of thesmue ccoltr. The ptpularity of green tin cloths renders lack and bhrewn fure nonst dtnireble. eane.Astrakhns.bl0ck fox. the dver ffurkownown imitation mik,mink Sitself. and the Iiud.sou's Bay and tu?sHin able, are ie viune. On many of the verycelegcnt circular cloaks shown. the sole trimma- was a hult of twerer r sable encircling the hrot, and coming down the front in oneor two amrn. A very- strlish cercula cloak was o soft. blaneket like dlark brown cloth, on whichrere , sheled stripes of dark and gldeten-bravn. 1 Striles are prophdesie to be "the olry war" 'lduring the autuen. Though ltngtcloak? as to tee much wornt. dtect jackets are by no mrens frferetten, and the number of nseotin ase?nlcdoth jackets, trinemed with claw fes. showln seorn to lceit to the popularity of these most becoming rmateiriats. It is no lougr faistinotable to le "' everely plain," ad trinmming is lavished ulpon the mneitles of tseacan. Furs and t braiet, ptearraenterie, adl velret are the the favoured trirmnin,. and one r more of these is to be seen on lmost all th sce eutn's wraps. Richness of ndornment mark the opera aod ball wraps. Gold end siltes braids and furs, trim epltuh. and many of the white brheade wncps are emhroiderrd in gold. The shapes are the same as of yore, tightfitting at the back and tong and loose in front. The likting for gree waa sehown in a charming me-a'-grnen opera wrap with geld epaulettce and gold taco edging the sling lceres. The millinery room was so gaily deecorated that one almost forgot the marvelt of Parisian millinery liepltrayed one tables and stands in admiring the i?rrord ovefunatela set with Drot'en eecina: ornament's, the bowls of ex quinite flowers, and tee laierge, veari-coltmeol chulen acso set onl gold trip-sle. Thiere wa e .t market absence of scarlet amoegst the millinery. No relepee. last seon wae complete without a daeh of crimson ; but g?ren ehas taken its place, anit every shade of green is to be eest amonge t the new hats. Brown. Mlack. and ternl-cotta are the glades neat inl vogue. The bonletas small clo'e-eitting. and particularlv pretty. Velvet was "lhre :l there end verDwhetere." Some charming aend neow bollnee? shown were of cloth embroeulerd in nik. A pretty moass-geen cloth e. re has reaised hints in bhick eilk embrottered on it. and w.as trinmmed in front with uleetand. ing e l,1ps of bt!ack snocl. The contrast wan veryv happl. The hat shaltec are legilon tlhi ea.one. There is the .Altne hat. itamnedt with atlk and staff birds' wmgs.heat are more roepular than ever. This ehaspes is only bsectoming to the woman wheo ren wear a hat e ell over her face: to the face that requires a soft frmning of hair it gives a sdngaltarl sever took. Emtlire hats in black baer, with blua roses or other dowers under the brim. Weer' to e seen amoi?gt the erap,.r c, and black l .ce hate aroe rophitied to be worn far into the atunrm. Thsn there were felt. and iplush., acd straw t(;insbromugts and La Toesean and oun Ith hatsand ehenneta velvet a, one of the most favoured trimmings. Feathers have returned to favousr with the bhwoi.brimmed hate, aned rihbons ane always popular and alway aeahptible. The display of children's cloaks and frocks was largae and -aried. Mauch ingenuity is dis. playld iea tile composition of the dre.aes for small girls and bos, aunl the hlouse meles so popular t actts -ts ;mod silks last spring anl this numarner appear in the richer and heavier meaterials of the autulln an?i winter. With the children's frocks and coats were shoen many exquisite ladies' erertinr jakekcts and dreuing-gsowns. A much.adlmir?l de!-ing-glewn eeas of crimason cloth of the rtdl Paisley shawl pattern, opening over a loose ifrent of ht lf hbertv rim-on silk. Electricl grey and salmon-pink were rombined and well haneonised is another lovely dredine-gsown. .\ robe of electrie-grey cashlmere oened over a o0 a'e gon of stImoan-pink likrte silk, onftineli at the waist by a broad bani of electeic-gre cthmlere: ther wineg-sleeves of caehture Isad revcr of silk. ;nd fell over under-sietres of ihtik. 1and tile hish Elizabethan rul of tlai:tel cashmere was lined with almon pink. All throutgl the e-taldietuusnt were exqcuiite gowns of cloth or silk, or both oeebintei , and raoh neemn? to rlea:t the prolbhccv that a marked :ae ence ,f elalub rate dralerie s would be a feature of this ?na on's str ile. The want of c-lctorat: tste d riers was, hu'cvever, marile up mn the richness and claborateness of the triummngs. Slovely ti ine ashmoere gown of soit Lincoln greesu hadi the lack hirawrieso lterfectly plain tree- the waist. They were aerupl' tlgetd with a broad lidct of velvet. In friot the -lrperies Werre log and str:ight ine their lite, and half-conrceehle at either side a lbroad panel of gold -embroielerv. The .xteice ea. trunnmeed to corresoeond. Thie ballroom was the surprise of this diLslea. g;old-co!oured dot,,s.e curtains andt hIaeg-intg lrekets of flowers adorn-l tihe dier tlat led ;o a. talrh"m that mi'ht le de-crilts ar a " hbeuty bshow." Witlin ait the drecs weree am?ng-ei-d to thie let aldvaentlage, is that one "thing of I leautv" mnight not "kll" " another. A white tulle gown sparteated a fame ,olioure-d :and a eal-blue robe ar d thIe delieatc lovelinese olf a foam-gtptrn gaow "r .ca brougiht out by the rontrestincg hts a of a gold-ueloure-d robe. In one conler of the roomwaca cabinet coveredsit exqeuisite fe-tier faes. that are to be much used at the Ibts of the co!ning season. It the opposite corner wan a disilay of dainty evening shoes, in shad-s to notch the gowns t iet etood round the eom. a "Judgieg be the dtie?la of tulle Itwas, that pretieot of hail-room fabnrs is to have the beet of it this year. The eternal "'wahtrfall" of tulle will, however, be hidden by tlhe broad Josephine snohess that oppearedl on all the gowns n the display. A very lovely bill lres. sauitalle for 11 a poung girl, wwes of foa:m-gn-ern tulle, seth a d wueath of gr:een Ipopie-s at the etge of the ekirt aed a oIray of teatiti , muingled wil looo tl oe l ge ,n o fling from shoulhr to e skirt-edge. The u.~ul r;oir saLsh csrpletedl i theis ee-arming on. sowte A cr e retty er sgown woasof wbih,-tulle,thc lbodice bcen; sede in U thie " tatuee" style, and adorced with a stera ofhlMie of the wley andl Ieaves: the e'irt wesa adrncd with llxnel of white brocadec enach ride, andt theee patnels turned ackr to dipla a , tender shadeof Chart-euse gro.en. Tue end b rcl blue anid waidte brocade ere ren lmbiled in another goWnl for an older elady. nd the flnt of the skirt wss coveretd wth white a ronews, full blown, the ?same rowe freing the beslire trimning; a wide blue ane white .loisehine eeh completed this handsoul dress. k A queen of ball gowns was a foam-gren tulle t] robe with a wide ,rtesiash hmpingat ne stde a to the skirt cdge. The front of the ds was covered with white rose Ietata, which loked as v if they htd bc-en scattered there by acidtent. tl A tirttier idll g'own for a fair young gl conuld c nosthe eagreed. tl