South Australian Register (Adelaide, SA : 1839 - 1900), Monday 10 December 1860, page 3


STUART'S JOURNAL

[Continued from Saturday]

Wednesday, May16. — Centre. At daybreak I dispatched Kekwick in search of permanent water, with orders to devote the whole of two days to that purpose. I must now do everything in my power to break this barrier that prevents me from

getting to the north. If I could only get 120 miles from this, I think there would be a chance of get-ting to the coast. I wish the horses could endure the want of water a few days longer. This last journey has tried them to their utmost. Two of them still look wretched, and I think will with difficulty get over it. Five of them would have stood another degree, but I dare not risk the others. For the past three weeks I have been suffering dreadful pains in the muscles, caused by the scurvy ; but the last two nights they have been most excruciating, so much so that I almost wished that death would come and relieve me of my torture. I cannot Iong endure many nights such as last, as I am very weak ; but must abide with patience my time, and wait for the Almighty. This morning I am better. The medicines I brought with me are bad and have no effect. Wind, south-west. Clouds coming from north west. Thursday, May 17.— Centre. Wind from the south, heavy clouds continued until sunrise, then cleared off. I was in full expectation of getting some rain, but am disappointed. I have again got through a dreadful night of suffering. I had about two hours sleep, which was a grand thing — the only sleep for three nights. This morning I observed the muscles of my limbs are changing from the yellow green colour to a black ; my mouth is getting worse, and it is with difficulty I can swallow anything. l am determined not to give in to it. I shall move about as long as possible. I wish the horses had been right, and then I should not have been here so long. Kekwick returned at 3 o'clock, and reported having found water in the Hanson, about 15 miles from Central Mount Stuart, but only a small supply ; beyond this the creek divides into two— one running north, the other east. He saw two natives, armed with long spears. but about 300 yards off ; they did not observe

him, and he, thinking it most prudent, did not show himself, so remained behind a bush till they were gone. In this instance I regret his being so pru dent, for I am anxious to hear of the appearance the central natives. Wind is changeable. Clouds from the north-west. Friday, May 18. — Centre. I have had a bad night's rest, and feel unable to move to-day. Wind, north-west. Saturday, May 19.— Centre. I had a few hours' sleep last night, which has been a great benefit to me. Moved down to the Hanson where we arrived at half-past 1.Completely done up was I from the motion of the horse. The water is a few inches below the surface in the sand. East side of Mount Stuart bearing 250°, and about 10 miles distant. I do not think the water permanent. Sunday, May 20.— The Hanson. Another fearful night. No rain. Wind and clouds from the north west. Monday, May 21.— The Hanson. Unable to move; very ill Indeed. When shall I be relieved from this dreadful state? Tuesday, May 22.— The Hanson. Last night I got a little sleep, and feel much easier this morn ing, and shall try and ride again. I shall steer north-east to a range of hills that I saw from Central Mount Stuart and hope from there to obtain an entrance to the north-west or north-east. I am also in the hope of cutting the creek that

carries off the surplus water from all the creeks that I have passed. One would scarcely think that the immense bodies of water that I have seen since March can be consumed by evaporation. Started on a course of 48° ; crossed the Hanson, running a little on our right. At six miles crossed it again, running to the north for two miles further. We crossed other four of its courses, running in the same direction; the most eastern one is spread over a large salt creek valley, and forms a lagoon at the foot of some sandridges, the highest of which is 10½ miles from last camp ; on the east side of it there is a large lagoon, five miles long and one and a half broad ; water has been in it lately, but it is now dry. We then proceeded through a little scrub and splendid grass. At 12 miles cut a small gum creek coming from the range; there are a number of birds and fresh native tracks in the creek. Sent Kekwick down to see if there was any water, while I went up and examined it. Round this is a large gum plain that we met the day we made the centre. It is completely covered with grass. Kekwick has run the creek out. At two miles he passed a little water, where the natives have been digging. He also came upon two of them, with two little children. They did not ob serve him till he was within fifty yards of them. They stood for a few minutes, paralysed with asto nishment then, snatching up their children, ran off as quick as their legs would carry them. They did not utter a sound, although we called to them.

We also observed they had no hair on their heads. I wish I could have got sufficiently close to have seen if it were really so, as the report in Adelaide is that natives in the interior have no hair on their bodies. At 14 miles we again struck the creek, with plenty of water. It winds over a beautiful plain. Camped, and very much done up. I could hardly sit the saddle this short distance. Wind, north-west. Wednesday, May 23.— Gum creek, east range. This creek I have named the Stirling, after the Hon. Edward Stirling, M.L.C. Followed it into the range on the same course towards a bluff, where I think I shall find an easy crossing. At one mile from the camp the hill commences on the south-east side of the creek, but on the north west side it commences three miles further back. In the creek there is an abundance of water for 13 miles. At 10 miles there is another large branch, with water, coming from the south-east. At 14 miles ascended the bluff and obtained the follow ing bearings:— To a high peak on the south side of the creek, which I have named Mount Gwynne, after His Honor Justice Gwynne, 186°; at two miles distant to another hill on the north side, 249°, which I have named Mount Mann, in memory of the late Commissioner of Insolvency. Central Mount Stuart bears 131° to the highest point at the north-west termination of next range, to which I shall now go. They appear to be two large hills— the north one the highest— which I have named Mount Strelitzki, after Count Stre litzki, bearing 358°. Another high peak on the same range I have named Mount Morphett, after the Hon. John Morphett, M.L.C. The view from this bluff is extensive, except to the west north-west, which I have named Forster Range,

after the Hon. Anthony Forster, M.L.C. From the south-west is the appearance of a long con tinuous range, much broken. On this side (the north-east) are table hills, with a number of isolated ones on the north side ; to the north-west is a scrubby and gum-tree plain ; to the north-north-west are some isolated low ranges ; to the east are a number of spurs from this range, composed of a hard, dark, red sandstone, mixed with small round quartz and ironstone— in some places flinty quartz. The range and hills are covered with spini fex, but the valleys are grassed. Descended and crossed a most beautifully grassed country. At four miles struck a creek coming from the range, and passing between two low ones running towards the north-east. At seven miles changed my course to the north-east. Camped in the creek to endea-vour to get water for the horses, before encounter ing the scrubby plains to-morrow. At five miles came upon a low range, but no creek ; it must have gone more to the eastward. It being now dark, camped under the ranges. Since I changed my course I have come through patches of mulga and other scrub, with plenty of grass. No watercourses. Wind, south-east ; lightning in the south and west. Thursday, May 24.— Range of low hills. This morning I feel very ill from climbing the bluff yesterday. No sleep during the night, the pains being so violent. At about 9 o'clock we had a heavy shower of rain, and a few more during the night. Very late before the horses were found, and every prospect of rain; also, my being so ill I have decided upon remaining here till to-morrow, there being sufficient water for the horses, and few showers during the day. Wind, north-west. Friday, May 25. - Range of low hills. Feel better this morning. Clouds all gone. Started for Mount Strelitzki ; passed some mulga scrub with plenty of grass. At 21 miles came upon a small gum creek. Gave the horses water, filled our can teens, and proceeded to the foot of the mount and camped ; at a mile from its basis the spinifex again begins. Wind, south-east, and and very very cold.

Saturday, May 28.— Mount Strelitzke. Camped. Very heavy clouds from the north-west. The Mount is about four miles distant. At sundown it commenced to rain for about an hour; it is very strange, the clouds come from the north-west, and the wind from the south-east. The rainy weather seems to be coming against the wind. Sunday, May 27.— Lagoon, north-east of Mount Strelitzke. We had a few heavy showers during the night, but it seems as if it would clear off; which I hope not, as we have not yet had sufficient; there are only two inches water in the Lagoon. Again feel the pains in my limbs very bad from climbing to top of the Mount, and assisting to build the cone of stones; but if I were not to put my hands to almost everything that is required I should never get on ; my party is too small ; it is terrible killing work. Monday May 28.— Lagoon, north-east of Mount Strelitzke. Could not get a start till a quarter-past 9 o'clock ; the horses having strayed to a distant bank for shelter from the wind, which is piercing cold. For three miles l had to go to the north-north-west, in order to clear the low stony range that runs to the east side of the Lagoon. I then changed to 22° for the far distant range. The first

three miles on this course was through a thick mulga scrub ; plenty of grass and little spinifex. It then changed to slightly undulating ; the country of a reddish soil gum-trees, cork-trees, and numerous low sandy plains, much resembling the gum and spinifex to the west, where I was twice beaten back, only varied by a little more scrub, and undu lating country, which, gives me hope of its soon ceasing. Camped, without water, on a little patch of grass. Distance to-day, 28 miles. Wind, south east. It has been very cold all day. Tuesday, May 20.— Scrub, spinifex, and gum-tree plain. Started at 8 o'clock on the same course for the range, which it still distant, through the same description of country. At seven miles we came upon a plain of long grass; it seems to have been flooded— most likely where a creek empties itself; it is about two miles broad. Between this and the first hill of the range we passed four of the same description. To the first hill, 14 miles, In another mile we struck a creek ; searched for water, but found none, although there are a number of birds. We then passed through another mulga scrub. After crossing a number of rough stony hills we arrived at the top of the range, which I have named Davenport Range, after the Hon. Samuel Davenport, M.L.C, ; they are composed of hard red sandstone with courses of quartz. I find this is not what I took it to be, as there is one higher behind it, and I should think it 40 or 50 miles distant ; the day being thick I cannot see distinctly. Between these ranges there is a large

plain, more open than those we have come over ; to the north apparently the termination of the range ; to the west of north (just visible) are two high hills, the northernmost is conical ; to the east and south-east is the plain and range ; to the west continuation of the plain of the last two days' journey. Although we had some heavy showers at the lagoon we have not passed a single watercourse, except the one we crossed a few miles before making this range, nor did we see a drop of surface water ; it seems to be absorbed the moment it falls. Descended the north-north-east side of the range, and at one and a half miles found some rain water in a creek coming from the range. Camped. Distance, 20 miles. Wind, south-east. Wednesday, May 30.— The Davenport Range. I find the water will not last more than three days. I have decided to remain here to-day, so have sent Kekwick in search of more, and as my hands are a little better I must get my plan brought up, which is a long way behind. In consequence of my hands being so bad with the scurvy, I have not been able to do anything to it for some time. The pains in my limbs are much easier, but the riding is very severe : my mouth is much better, which gives me hope of its leaving me soon. Native tracks are

here. When on the range l saw smoke in the scrub a few miles to the north-west. Sundown:— I am quite surprised at Kekwick's not returning, as my instructions to him were not to do more than five or six miles ; and then to return whether he found water or not ; l am much afraid something has happened to him, and feel very uneasy about him. Thursday, May 31 - Davenport Range. Kek wick has not returned ; I do trust nothing has happened to him. I must be off and follow up his tracks. Sent Ben for the horses ; he was a long time finding them, as is generally the case when one wants a thing in a hurry. Half-past 9 — Kekwick has arrived before the horses ; he overshot his mark last night and got beyond the camp. I am glad he has returned safely. He informs me that he came upon plenty of water a few miles from here, which compensates for the anxiety he caused me during the night; his reason for not returning was his crossing a gum creek which had a promising ap pearance and induced him to follow it to the plains where he found abundance of water. While he was riding he was taken very ill and unable to come on, for some, time, which made it so late that he could not see to reach the camp. He is unable to go on to-day, which is vexing ; for I wish to get on as quickly as possible. Friday. June 1.— The Murchison Ranges. Did

not get a start till late, the horses having strayed. Started on a course of 22°, and at two miles struck a gum creek coming from the range and running west-north-west. At three and a half miles crossed a large one coming from and running the same direction ; then commenced again the same sort of country that we passed through the other day, except some low stony rivers. At eight miles struck a splendid large gum creek having large and deep reaches of water with fish four or five inches long, and running as far as I can see through the plain, and its course at this place is to the west-north-west ; it is very broad, and in some places the banks are perpendicular ; from bank to bank its width is about ten chains, and well grassed with fine gum trees ; mulga and other bushes. This is as fine a creek for water as we have passed since leaving Chambers's Creek. It being far advanced in the day, I shall camp here and get to the range to-morrow. I am much inclined to follow this creek and see where it empties itself, but I expect to find a large one next the range, or on the other side, and I wish to get on the top of the range to see what the country in advance is like. The fish in this creek leads me to think it must empty itself either at the north-west coast or into a lake. I hardly think it can empty itself into the gum plain like others lately passed. i have named it the Bonney Creek, after Charles Bonney, Esq., late Commissioner of Crown Lands for South Australia. Saturday, June 2.— The Bonney Creek. Started at twenty minutes past 8 on same course, 22°. for the range, through a country of alter nate spinifex, grass, and mulga scrub. At seven miles struck the large gum creek, with every ap pearance of water. I have no time to look for it, being anxious to make the range tonight. The creek is large and resembles the other. I have named It McLaren's Creek, after John McLaren,

Esq., late Deputy surveyor-general of South Aus tralia. We have passed through a good grassed country, with a little scrub. At seventeen miles we reached the top of the first range, which is com posed of a hard white granite-looking rock, with courses of quartz through it. . I have got three or four spurs to cross before making, the main range. McLaren's Creek is running in the same direction as the Bonney Creek as far as I could see. Started from the top of range, and had a difficult job in crossing the spurs. At sun down arrived safely on a gum flat between the ranges. Attempted to get upon what appears to be the highest range, but were deterred in getting up the horses. We then sought for water among the numerous gum creeks that cover the plain; at dark found some, and camped. There is a good supply, but I do not think its permanent ; it will last a month or six weeks. Wind, variable. Sunday, June 3.— Murchison Ranges. Feel un well this morning from the rough use of yester day. It was my intention to have walked to the top of the range to-day, but I am not able to do so. Between the ranges is a bed of soft white sandstone, through which the different creeks have cut deep cones. The stones on the sur face—igneous principally— are composed of iron quartz, dark, black, and blue, also a bright red one ; they run together, and twist into all finds of nicks. This plain is covered with a most hard spinifex, very difficult to get the horses to face. There is a little grass in the creek. About 1 mile south-west from the camp, in another creek, is a large waterhole 10 yards long by 20 wide, which will last months. I have named these ranges. Monday, June 4.— Murchison Ranges. Started on a course of 330°, to round this spur of the ranges, and at four miles and a half changed to 15°, to high point of the range. At three miles arrived on the top, which I have named Mount Figg. From this the view is extensive. The course of this range from the south to this point is 250°, it then makes a turn to the north-north-west ; in that direction the country appears more open, with some patches of thick scrub and high ranges in the distance. From north-west to west it

appears to be gum plain with open patches of grass, a number of creeks running Into it. I shall change my course to a high peak on the north west point of the range, which bears from this 340° 30'. This range is volcanic. Here it is the same formation as I have already given. Started from the top of the mount at 12 o'clock, went along the side of the range for eight miles, and met a small creek running our course. Followed it up for three miles ; it then took a more westerly course. I then left it, taking my own. After leaving the mount the range is composed of red sandstone with a few quartz. Camped at 6 o'clock without water. Did not meet a creek since leaving the one coming from the ranges. The country from that is red sandy soil, well grassed, having now and then to go through a little spinifex, gum trees, mulga, cork-trees, mallee, and numerous other scrubs ; none being very thick. We occa sionally met with a little ironstone gravel. Tuesday, June 6.— Gum-tree Plain. Started on the same course for the high peak at 7 o'clock, through the same kind of country as yesterday. No watercourse at 15 miles. Ascended the peak, which I have named Mount Samuel, after my brother. The top is a mass of nearly-pure iron stone ; it attracted the compass 160°. From north to west is a number of broken ranges and isolated hills, in all sorts of shapes, being volcanic. No high distant hills visible. The isolated hills seem to be termination of these ranges, which appear to be running north and south. I have named them the McDouall Ranges, after Colonel McDouall, of the 2nd life Guards, Logan, Wigtownshire. I then changed my course to the north-north-east, in search of water, there being no appearance of any to the north-north-west. After travelling five miles, over grassy, small plains, between isolated hills and gum-trees, I could not find a watercourse, so changed to the east to see if I could see any thing from a high hill, which I ascended, and can see a gum creek coming from the range on

the east side. Followed it down ; and a mile and a half from the top found a splendid hole of water in the rock, very deep and permanent. The creek is very rocky, and its course here is north-east into the plain. Wind, south-east. Clouds from the north-west. Wednesday, June 6.— Gum-creek, north-east side of the McDouall Ranges. There being nothing but spinifex on the ranges and creeks, the horses had been travelling all night in search of food, and had gone a long way before they were over taken ; but we managed to get started by 11, on a course 340°. After crossing numerous creeks and stout spinifex, through which we had great diffi culty in driving the horses, at five miles struck a gum creek, and found water. The banks have most excellent feed upon them, and in abundance. It being so late when we started, and the horses having little food last night, and apparently thick scrub to encounter, and might be without water for three days, I have determined to remain here to-day and give them the advantage of the feed, so that they may be enabled to undergo a push. At this place the creek is running east. Ben, in searching for the horses this morning, found three or four more large waterholes in the creek. A little south-east from this there appears to be an abundance of water in the ranges. Before we reached this we crossed some marks very much resembling old horse tracks. This I have named Tennant's Creek. Thursday, June 7.— Tennant's Creek, McDouall Ranges. Started at 7.20, on a course 340°. At three miles passed through a large number of huge granite rocks, piled together, with a few small

watercourses running among them to the eastward. We then encountered a thick scrub, and occa sionally crossed a few low quartz rises coming from the McDouall Ranges. At 14 miles ascended the highest of them. To the north-west and north is another range about 10 miles distant which seems to continue a long way. I will change my course to 315°. That being the highest point, I have named it Mount Woodcock, after the Venerable the Archdeacon of Adelaide. At two miles on this course we came upon a gum creek, running to the north-east. Followed it for a mile and a half, and found water, which will last five or six weeks, and an immense quantity of birds. Native camping-place. They seem to have been here lately. Watered the horses, and proceeded towards the range. At two miles passed a low ironstone range, peculiar in having a large square mass of ironstone standing by itself, about the centre. I have named it Mount Sin-clair, after James Sinclair, Esq., of Port Lincoln. Passed through the thick scrub, in which we saw a new one ; it has a blue-green leaf, 10 inches long by six broad : it is a very handsome bush. Looked for some seed, but could find none. At five miles crossed a grassy gum plain, where a creek empties itself. The same scrub continues to the range, where we arrived at 12 miles from the water. It is not very high, but rough and steep, and we had great difficulty in getting to the top : but, after many twistings, turnings, and scramblings, we at last arrived all right. We have found it to be tableland. At 14 miles camped without water. The range is composed of ironstone, granite,, quartz, and red sandstone, running north of west and south of east. I have named it Short's Range, after the Lord Bishop of Adelaide. Friday, June 8 - Short's Range. Started at 8, on the same course, 315°, to some distant rising ground. Short's Range seems to run nearly parallel to our course ; also another distant range to the north, which I have named Sturt's Range, after Captain Sturt. The tableland continued about two miles, and then a gradual descent to the

plains, and entered a thick scrub of spinifex and gum. At 18 miles came upon a beautiful plain of grass, having large gum-trees, a new description of tree, the foliage of which is a dark green, having a rough dark-coloured bark ; also the cork-trees, and numerous shrubs. This plain continued for 31 miles, when we camped, but the last part is not so good. We are now getting into spinifex and a light sandy soil ; the thick scrub is beginning again. When I struck this plain I was in great hopes of finding water, but such is not the case. We have not crossed a watercourse for 31 miles. Wind, south-east. Saturday, June 9.— Grassy plains. There is some rising ground a little farther on, to which I shall go in search of a creek. If I do not find one. I shall have to retreat to Bishop's Creek, as the horses have now been two nights without water. Started at same course, 315°, through scrub and a light sandy soil. At four miles got to rise, which is a scrubby sandhill. I can see nothing from this, the scrub being so thick— about 12 feet high— a nasty tough wiry description ; it has torn our saddle-bags and hands to pieces. I got up a tree to see over It, and can see nothing but scrub for a long distance in our course. No appearance of any creeks. I must endeavour to find water. It is very vexing to get this far and have to turn back, when perhaps another day's journey would bring me to a better country. I shall now take a south course and cut the grassy plains to the westward, in the hope of finding water. If I succeed I shall be able to get two days' journey to the north-west. Started on a south course through scrub and small grassy plains, and at 14 miles came upon the large one, but no water can we find. Seeing the state of my horses for the want of it, I now regret that I attempted the south course, which makes the distance from the water so much greater, but I fully expected to have met with it in the grassy plains. I hope we shall meet

with more success to-morrow. Wind, south-east. Heavy clouds from the north-west. I trust it will rain before morning. Sunday. June 10.— Grassy plains. At sunrise started, and at two miles again got into the scrub. Three of the horses we can scarcely get along; they are very much done up. At 11 one gave in altogether. We cannot get him up. We have tried everything in our power to do something for him. The other horses have been carrying his load, and he has been going without anything to carry this last hour and a half. It will not do, and I am obliged, although with great reluctance, to leave him to his fate. Had this occurred nearer the water I should have put an end to his exist ence by taking part of him to eat, for we are now very short of provisions, and the other horses have quite enough to carry without having to take his load. l wish I had left him sooner. At 12 o'clock I find I shall some more if they do not get water to-night and it will be to-morrow before I can reach Bishop's Creek. I shall now go to Short's Range and try to find some. The little bay mare, Polly, has become nearly mad, running about among the horses and kicking them as she passes. Even the men do not escape from her heels. At five and a half miles made the range. There are no large creeks coming from this side, but a few small ones, which empty themselves in the plain. Sand up to the foot of the hills. Before reaching the range another horse is done up. We have taken his load off. He has only been car rying about 30 lbs. in consequence of his back being bad. We lightened all the weak horses, two days since. We shall now try if the bad one will go without anything on his back. We are now among the granite ridges, and hope to find water

on the other side. The horse has given in. We must leave him for the sake of the others ; too much time has already been lost in endeavouring to get them on. Reached the other side. Searched the different creeks, but can find no water. Crossed a spur of the range running south, and can see a nice-looking creek, with gum trees. Hopes and spirits are again revived ; the sight of it has freshened the horses, who are hurrying on towards it. Traversed it down, but to our great disappointment found that it lost itself in a grassy plain. It is now dark, so I shall remain here for the night. The sky is overcast, and I trust Provi-dence will send rain before morning. An accident has happened to the water we were carrying, it having run out. If it clears during the night, so that I can see the stars to guide by, I shall move on if it does not rain. Monday, June 11— Short's Range. During the night, there were a few drops of rain, which en livened us with the hopes of more, and at 4 it looked as if we were to have a deluge ; but alas! it only lasted about two minutes, and as much fell as would wet a pocket-handkerchief. Saddled and started through the range. My poor little mare looks very bad this morning. I have taken every thing off her to try and get her to water, and have been obliged to leave as many things at this camp as we can possibly do without. The mare lies down every few yards ; therefore I left her, for the sake of the others, in the ranges. From the num ber of birds about, I think there must be water near. I hope she may find it, although l am afraid she is too far gone even to try. Reached the foot of Mount Woodcock at 1. Horses revived at seeing the track. I shall now be able to get them all safe to water, although one is still doubtful. My own black mare shows symptoms of madness, but still keeps on and does her work well. About an hour before sundown, arrived at the water without any more losses, for which I sincerely thank the Almighty. We have had a terrible job to keep the horses from drinking too much water, but now they have had a few mouthfuls of grass I

have allowed them to take as much at they think proper. The natives have been here since we left. Tuesday. June 12.— Bishop's Creek. Resting horses. They look very bad, and remained by the water all night. Wednesday, June 13. - Bishop's Creek. The horses still look bad, and stayed by the water nearly all night. They had been 101 hours without a drop, and have accomplished a journey of 112 miles. They will require a week to recover. One is very lame from a kick the little mare gave him in her madness. Thus ends, at present, my last attempt to make the Victoria River. Three times have I tried it and been forced to retreat. About 11 o'clock, I heard the voice of a native. Looked round and could see two in the scrub about a quarter of a mile distant I beckoned them to approach; but they kept making signs which I could not understand. I then moved towards them, but the moment they saw me move they ran off immediately. Some quarter of an hour after-wards, they again made their appearance on the top of the quartz reef opposite our camp, and two others showed themselves in the same place where the two first did. Thinking this was the only water. I made signs to the two on the reef to go to the water. Still they continued to talk and make signs which I could not understand. It seemed as if they wished us to go away, which I was determined not to do. They made a number of frantic gestures, shaking their spears, and twirling them round their heads ; I suppose bidding us defiance. The youngest was about 25 years of age. They placed a very long spear into the instrument they threw them with ; and after a few more gestures, descended from the reef and gradually came nearer. I made signs of encouragement to them to come on, at the same time moved towards him. At last we arrived on the banks of the creek, I on one side, he on the other. He had a long spear, a wamera, two in struments like the boomerang, but more the shape of a scimitar, with a very sharp edge, having a thick place at the end for the hand, roughly carved. The gestures he was making were signs of hostility ; he came fully prepared for war. I then broke a bunch of green leaves, and held it up before him. inviting him to come across to me. That he did not fancy, so I crossed to him, and got within two yards of him. He thought I was

quite near enough, and would not have me any nearer, for he kept moving back as I approached him, till at last we both stood still. I tried to make him understand by signs that all we wanted was the water for two or three days ; at last the seemed to understand, nodded his head, pointed to the water, then to our camp, and held up his five fingers. I then endeavoured to learn from him if there was water in the north or north-east, but could make nothing of him. He viewed me very steadily for a long time, began talking, and, seeing that I did not understand him, he made the sign that natives generally do of wanting something to eat, and pointed towards me. Whether he meant to ask if I was hungry, or that I would make a supper for him, I do not know. I bowed my head as if I understood him perfectly. We then separated, keeping a watchful eye upon him all the time I was crossing the creek. Before I left him the other one joined. The first was a tall, powerful, well-made fellow, upwards of six feet ; his hair was very long. He had a net of a red colour round his head, with the end of his hair lying on his shoulder. I observed no other thing that was peculiar about him. They had neither skins nor anything round their bodies, but were quite naked. They then took their departure. A short time afterwards I saw them joined by five others. We have seen no

more of them to-day, and I hope they will not again trouble us, but let my horses rest in peace. Wind, south; all the clouds gone. Nights and mornings very cold. Shoeing horses, repairing and mending saddle-bags. Thursday, June 14 — Bishop's Creek. On ex amining the waterhole I find there are small crab fish in them, which leads me to think it is perma nent. This morning we again hear the voices of the natives up the creek to the west. There must be plenty more water up there, as most of the birds go in that direction to drink, passing this water. The natives have not come near us to-day ; their smokes have been round us. Shoeing horses, re pairing and making saddle-bags, which were torn to pieces by the scrub. Friday, June 15.— Bishop's Creek. Resting horses and getting our equipments ready for another trial, for which I think the horses will be ready on Monday morning. No more of the natives, but their smokes are still visible. Wind coming from the south : days hot; nights cool. Saturday, June 16.— Bishop's Creek. Preparing for another trial. The horses are still drinking an immense quantity of water, and are at it five or six times a day. They must have suffered dreadfully. The grass here is as dry as if it had been the middle of summer instead of winter. I hope we will soon have rain, which will be a blessing to me. Sunday, June 17.— Bishop's Creek. The horses are still paying frequent visits to the water. We have found more about a mile further up the creek.

and there seems to be plenty further up in the hills. I cannot examine it now in consequence of the natives being about. It would not do for me to leave the party, it being so small : nor do I like sending one of them, for they might be taken by surprise and cut off ; which would ruin me alto gether, being unable to do scarcely anything my self. Although much better, I am still very weak ; the pains in my limbs are not so constant. I attribute this relief to eating a number of native cucumbers, which are in quantities on this creek. The horse that was kicked by the mare is still very lame. Wind, south-east. Monday. June 18 - Started at half-past 9 on a bearing 18° through a plain of alternate grass, scrub, and spinifex. At five miles passed a number of isolated hills close together, composed of large masses of ironstone, quartz, and a hard brown rock, very irregular ; the stones have the appearance of having undergone the action of fire. We then pro ceeded through some very bad spinifex, dark coloured, hard, and dry ; we could scarcely get the horses to face it. We then came upon a grassy plain, and at 10 miles struck a gum creek coming from the west of north-west, and running at this place east-north-east. Followed it, and found an abundance of water in long deep holes, with shells of crabfish lying on the banks. The water is up wards of a mile. The creek then spreads over a scrub ; gum-trees and grassy plain ; and is joined by the other creeks comming from the MacDonnell Range. I thought it advisable to camp here the rest of the day : a further journey would be a risk for the horse that is lame, and I do not wish to lose any more. In a few hours I shall cross Short's Range, and I am afraid he will not be able to do it. Natives about. Splendid grass on the plain and on the banks of the creek. This creek I have named Phillips's Creek, after John Phillips, J.P., of Kanyaka. Wind variable. Tuesday, June 19.— Phillips's Creek. Started at 8 on the same bearing, 18°. We first passed through a well-grassed plain, with a little scrub, then through hard spinifex. At one mile crossed

another gum creek with water in it. Crossing from Short's Range, at four miles reached the top of the spur of the range ; at seven miles top of range about two miles. To the east the range seems to terminate in gum plain, and apparently a spur from the MacDonnell Ranges, running the other side of the plain, and coping our line. Short's Range is composed of quartz, ironstone, red granite, and a little lime. Descended into the plain, and at ten miles came upon another gum creek, spreading over a grassy plain. Found no water. At thirteen miles came upon some dry swamps, with a number of birds about them. At fourteen miles top of next range. From this the appearance of the country on this course is seem ingly very scrubby. To the north the same. On a bearing of 55° in the far distance is apparently the termination of another range. I do not like facing the scrub again so soon after my last loss, and from which my horses are not quite recovered. I shall return to the swamps and look for water : if I find any, shall start to-morrow morning for the end of the distant range. My lame horse is unable to do more to-day ; crossing that range has been hard upon him. Returned to the swamps and found a fine pond of water. Camped. The water is derived from the creek that we passed in the middle of the day. These I have named Kekwick's Ponds, in token of the zeal and activity he has displayed during the expedition. Wednesday, June 20.— Kekwick Ponds. Sad dled at sunrise. Proceeded to the top of the low range, from which I turned back yesterday, and changed my course to 56° to northenmost distant point of hills. The country alternative grass and spinifex. At 3 o'clock struck the William Creek, with splendid grass on its banks. It ran our course for nearly three miles : it then turned to the east. We then entered thick scrub of the same description as that in which I lost my other horses, and which continued to the range. From this we

can see a range to the south-south-east. At about ten miles is a large lake ; apparently red sandhills on the east side. I cannot see the extent of the hills that I am on, being so low. They are com posed of granite, and running north and south. To the north and north-east is another lake about the same distance, to which I shall go on a course of 32° 30'. On the north side of this one there seems to be sandhills with scrub. After leaving the hills we passed through a soft, sandy, scrubby country. It then became harder, with alternate grass and spinifex. At four miles from the hills camped without water. My horses have not recovered from their last trial, and seem to be very tired to night, although today's journey was not a long one : but the day has been hot, the scrub very thick, and difficult to get through. Thursday, June 21.— Scrub. The horses having gone back on the track, we did not get a start till half-past 8 o'clock. Our course was 32°30' to a high hill on the other side of the lake. Passed through a thick scrub of cork-tree, gums, and other low thick scrub, with spinifex and grass. At seven miles came upon what I thought to be the lake, but turns out to be a large grassy plain of rich alluvial soil, covered with dry grass, which gave it the appearance of a lake. At three miles crossed to the top of the hill; no water can be seen. The hills on the north side are composed of ironstone and granite, which, from the distance, looked like sandhills. From the top of the hill I

can see the plain extending a little to the west of north, but I cannot see far for the mirage. To the north-north-east is another plain, but smaller —a mile and a half broad, and nearly circular, being surrounded by hills of the same description ; no watercourse nor water. To the north-east is another extensive one—-its dimensions I can not see ; I seem to have got into a land of grassy plains and low stony hill. I wish my horses had had water last night or yesterday— they seem to be much in want of it; I most devote the rest of the day in searching for it. I shall therefore, direct my course to the south part of the plain that I have just crossed, as it seems to be the lowest, and the flight of the birds is in that direction. Searched everywhere, but found no water, so must return to Kekwick Ponds. The day is extremely hot, and my horses cannot stand two nights more without water; if they do I shall lose two or three. Would that they had more endurance; it is dread ful to have to turn back almost at the threshold of success. I cannot be far from the dip of the country to the gulf. Returned by another course to where I camped last night. I would fain try the plain to the south, but dare not risk it ; I can spare no more horses. Proceeded to the low ranges that I crossed yesterday : examined it but can find no water. Camped. Two of the horses very much done up. I must back through nasty scrub again.

Friday, June 22.— Under the west low range. Started at sunrise for the Ponds, and at a quarter past 4 arrived, the horses very much exhausted. I am glad I did not remain another night, as three of them are completely done up, and it has been with difficulty that we have got them here. Wind, south-east. Saturday, June 23— Kekwick's Ponds. Resting horses. About 10 o'clock were visited by two natives, who presented us four opossums and a number of small parrots ; they were much frightened at first but after a short time became very bold, and wished to steal everything they could lay their fingers on. I caught one conceal ing the rasp used in shoeing horses under the net ting he had round his waist, and was obliged to take it from him by force. The canteens they seemed determined to have, and it was with trouble we could keep them away. They wanted to pry into everything, and it was with difficulty we could keep them off. In about half an hour two other young men approached the camp. Thinking they might be in want of water, and afraid to come to it on account of the horses, I sent Ben with a tin dishful, which they drank. They were very young men, and much frightened, and would not come near. About an hour before sundown the first that came returned, bringing with them three others ; two were powerful, tall good-looking young men, and as fine ones as I have yet seen ; they had a hat or helmet on their heads, which looked very neat, fitted close to the brow rising straight up to a rounded peak three or four inches above the head, and gradually became narrower towards the back part : the outside is network, the

inside is composed of feathers very tightly bound with cord, until it it as hard as a piece of wood. It may be used as a protection against the sun, or armour for the battle-field. One of them had a great many scars upon him, and seemed to be a leading man. Two only had helmets on, the others had pieces of netting bound round their foreheads. One was an old man, and seemed to be the father of the two young men; he was very talkative, but I could make nothing of him. I endeavoured to obtain from him where the next water is by signs and so on. After talking some time, and he talking to his sons, turned round and astonished me by giving me a masonic sign. I looked at him steadily ; he repeated it, as did also his two sons. I returned it which seemed to please them much. The old man then patted me on the shoulder, stroked my bead, and took their departure, making friendly signs till out of sight We enjoyed a good supper from the opossums, which we have not had for many a day. I find the quantity of rations not enough. The men are complaining of weakness for want of sufficient rations. Five pounds of flour per week is too little for any length of time. It may do for a month or so ; but when it comes to be so long as I have been out we feel it very much, and the dried meat being very young, it has not half the strength that old meat has. Sunday, June 24.— Kekwick's Ponds. Our black friends have not made their appearance to-day. Monday,- June 25.— Kekwick's Ponds. Started again from top of low range on a bearing of 345° to some very distant hills, to see if I can get into the fall of the country to the Gulf of Carpentaria. At two miles crossed a large gum creek, with large beds of concrete ironstone, which I have named Hayward Creek, after Fred. Hayward, Esq. The banks are beautifully grassed, and extend for four

miles on the north; it then becomes scrub, in some places, very thick, with spinifex occa sionally. At 14 miles struck a large gum creek, having large streets of water in it, and plenty of ducks, the native com panion, black snags, cranes and other birds upon it. Camped here for the remainder of the day. The course of the creek here is to the north of east, and coming from north of west, apparently from the range, which is distant about 10 miles. This creek much resembles Chamber's Creek. There are some small fish in the ponds, which are about 80 yards broad and three-quarters of a mile long, having large masses of concrete ironstone at both ends separating the one pond from the other : there are also gumtrees on these ponds. Wind, north west; very hot. Tuesday, June 26— Large gum creek with streets of water. I have resolved to follow this creek down to-day, and if water continues to follow it out so started on a course 77°, and at six miles crossed the creek, it running a little more to the north ; long streets of water all the way down to this. The banks at some places are steep ; the lower part formed of concrete, the upper part is sandy soil, which gives me a bad opinion of it for water if the concrete ceases. Here we saw some blacks, they would not come near us, but walked off as fast as they could. From the top of the rise we saw where they camped, which was on the banks of a huge sheet of water. We passed them without taking any notice, and at nine miles not seeing any appearance of the creek changed my course to 25°. At three-quarters of a mile cut it again, but with no water in it. It is much narrower and deeper, having sandy bank and sandy bed with gum-trees growing in the bottom. Changed again to 77°, frequently crossing the course, and at 15 miles saw there was no hope of obtaining water. The country is becom ing more sandy, with spinifex and thick scrub down

the banks of the creek. I must keep close to the hills, and as the day has been very hot I shall return and camp at the nine miles from our last camp, if there is water ; if there is not I shall have to camp a short way above where we saw the natives this morning. I do not wish to get too near them nor among them in any way. We could find no water below where they were camped ; I therefore pushed on to get above them before dark. At about one and a half mile from the creek we saw where they had been, examining our tracks, and as we approached the creek their tracks became more numerous on ours. When we arrived on the top of the rise from where we had previously seen their fire, we now saw neither smoke, fires, nor anything else ; it being nearly dark I concluded they had left in conse-quence of having seen us pass in the morning. I was moving on to the place where we crossed the creek in the morning, and had just entered some scrub, when suddenly up started three tall powerful men, fully armed, having a number of boomerangs, waddies, and spears. Their distance from us being about 200 yards, it being also near dark, and the scrub we were then in being very disadvantageous for notice of them, but such wars not their intention, as they continued to approach us, calling out and making all sorts of gestures, apparently of defiance. I then faced them, making all sorts of signs of friendship I could think of. They seemed to be in a great fury, moving their boomerangs about their heads and howling to the top of their voices ; also performing some sort of dance. They were now joined by a number more, which in a few minutes increased to upwards of 30— every bush seemed to produce a man. Putting the horses on towards the creek, and placing ourselves between them and the natives, told the men to get their guns ready, for I could see they were determined upon mischief. They paid no regard to all the signs of friendship, I kept constantly making, but were still gradually approaching nearer. I felt very unwilling to fire upon them and continued making signs of peace and friendship, but all to no purpose. An old man (the leader) who was in advance made signs with his boomerang for us to be off, which proved to be one of defence, for I had no sooner turned my horses head to see if that was what they wished than we received a shower of boomerangs, accom panied by a fearful yell. They then commenced

jumping, dancing, yelling, and showing their arms in all sorts of postures, like so many fiends, and setting fire to the grass. I could now see many others getting up from behind the bushes ; still I felt unwilling to fire upon them, and tried to make them understand that we wished to do them no harm. They now came within 40 yards of us, and again made a charge, throwing their boomerangs, which came whistling and whizzing past our ears. One spear struck my horse. I then gave orders to fire, which staged their mad career for a little. Our packhorses which were before us took fright when they heard the firing and fearful yelling and made off for the creek. Seeing the blacks running from bush to bush with the intention of cutting us off from them, while those in front were still yelling, throwing their boomerangs and coming nearer to us, gave them another reception, and sent Ben after the horses to drive them to a more favourable place, while Kekwick and I remained to cover our rear. We soon got in advance of our enemies, but they still kept following beyond the reach of our guns ; the. fearful yelling continuing, and fires springing in every direction ; and it being now quite dark, with the country scrubby, and our enemis numerous, bold, and daring we could easily be surrounded and destroyed by such determined fellows as they have shown themselves to be. Seeing there is no chance with such fearful odds against us (10 to 1), and knowing the disad vantages under which we laboured, I very unwillingly made up my mind to push on to last night's camp, which we did. Now. I have considered the matter over I do not think it prudent to remain here to-night. I shall there fore continue my journey until reaching the open grassy plain on gum creek. They still keep following us. I only wish I had four other men ; my party being so small we can only fall back and act on the defensive. If I were to stand and fight them our horses must remain unprotected, and we in all probability cut off from them, which they seem to be aiming at, and prevent our advance up the creek. By this time they must know that we do not care for them. Arrived at Hayward's Creek at 11 o'clock. Wednesday, June 27.— Hayward's Creek. Last night it was my intention to have gone this morn ing to Kekwick's Ponds, to water the horses, give them this day to rest, and to have proceeded the

next day back to the large creek, and go on to the distant hills that I was steering for on the 25th instant ; but after considering the matter over, I have most reluctantly come to the determination of abandoning the attempt to make the Gulf of Carpentaria, as being most imprudent, situated as I am, and my party being too small to cope with such wily, determined natives as those we have just encountered. Their arrangements and manner of attack were as well conducted and planned as Europeans could do it. They observed us passing in the morning, examined our tracks to see which way we had gone, knew we could get no water down the creek and most return to get it ; so thus must have planned their attack. Their charge was in double column, open order, and we had to take steady aim to make an impression. With such as these for enemies, it would be destruction to all my party for me to attempt to go on, and all the information of the interior that I have already obtained would be lost, having only half rations for six months (four of which are already gone), and my men complaining of weakness from short rations ; and unable to perform what they ought to do, and my health being so bad that I am scarcely able to sit in the saddle the whole day. After considering all these obstacles, I think it would be madness and folly to risk more. If my life would be the only sacrifice, I would willingly give it to accomplish the end that I aimed at : but

it seems I am not to obtain it. Man proposes, but God disposes, and His will must be obeyed. Only two showers of rain have fallen since March ; I am afraid of the water drying up to the south. I fully expected rain at this time, but not a drop has come. The days now are very hot. The feed, for the horses is as dry as if it had been the middle of summer. They are much reduced in condition ; so much so, that I am afraid of their being longer than one night without water. Seeing there are signal-smokes around, and judging that our black friends at Kekwick's Ponds might have been playing a double part with us, I gave them a wide berth, and steered for Bishop's Creek, where we arrived in the afternoon. No natives have been here since we left. They seem to be very nume rous, judging from the number of graves (which are in trees) that we have passed between this and the large creek where they made their attack upon us. These natives have quite a different cast of features from those in the east; they have neither the broad flat nose, large mouth, nor the projecting eyebrows, but more of the Malay. They are tall, muscular, well-made men ; and I think must have seen or encountered white men before. Thursday. June 28.— Bishop's Creek. Camped at the rocky waterhole, north-east side of the McDouall Range. Friday, June 29. —Anderson's Creek. Crossed the McDouall Range, and camped on a gum creek north-east side of the Murchison Ranges, which I have named Gilbert's Creek, after Thomas Gilbert, Esq., late Colonial Storekeeper. Saturday, June 30 — Gilbert's Creek. Crossed the Murchison Ranges and the large gum creek coming from them and running west-north-west which I have named Baker's Creek, after the Hon. John Baker, M.L.C. I did not examine it but judging from its appearance and the native smoke, I should think there is water in it. Proceeded to the creek where we camped before, and found all the water gone but a little moisture in the bottom of the holes. At this I was rather surprised, as I thought it would last at least three months. Went to another creek, where there was a large hole of water in a conglomerate rock. This we found also to be much reduced. When we last saw it its depth was four feet now it is only eighteen inches. Camped. [To be continued.]