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MODES AND ROBES.

A TOUCH OF SUMMER.

Last nul, was one of Mirpriscs ns far a* liuuiathct was comerned, mid pt rliaps the jriatot of all ii as that batunkii una with

jut a bli inish On Mundi) nnd Tur*d ii j

i»o slimrcd around fins, and winter gar in. nts »tere the old» ones to be thought of

Then tame the sudden hut .ami (hist of lluuxhv and Trida), and, nu a dist un t (?ontrtsl to all this ilisrnnifort. Situnlii» left III without n grim.lil. A soft blue <k>. brilliant sunshine, n, gentle 100I breere, tul limit i true of du-t, hdped to in ike Hie I aullield ( up of lui I a mcmnribU une v.* the .veils go on, tin II'I|HIILamo of the event from .1 fiiniii re sl.intlpoiiit is beiom utg mole ni 11 Lui Not uni« is it tho tirst big riisou we Itavo for wearing our ne« ipuug gowns, lint >t is our luvt opportune» of suing Huno of our fruiils. It n true «te Ililli' »ecu tile (lispli)s in Hu shops, and most of 11« hn»e ii ad of .uni dn-ru«»(d Hie fisliiuns with a gooil dei! of niteiist, bul until the hits and funks ni sun on 11 .ii I (iinh 110 one . III realise Huit full vii III

And Hu« is «»hit 1« li.irut b» mo«! ti otu. 11 it Cullin lil Once or tune it hu« hip pent d Hut an absolnteli licit tit p inure in

Ins« hu« bien iintut for tin Itr-t lum' at die I), lulu i- mix-tiiig. but no «in h surplis. ittiitlui its Hi« vin. Al Hie smut' lune, lim was inttili Hut v» 1« iiitniisii-.ill» I,, m 1Í11I .nul a g ind dell ni Hut »»Inen (om- it ml tingun! ti willi ki-i.i- l'rom tuno lo tiim 1 iisliuiii lui« milli lid monstrous 1 \igg( 1 ilion« and di ¡oniutii'« 11,11111 »i,1111.11, nut slit has liol bull um-,«ti nth mid, and hcie ole punid« winn t-hr his done mut h 11 (illunie niturul iii inn At Hu« |m" H tit ni.uncut »te in lejou.ng in the Uti lui no wollum ntvil be n iii«« olio to «HA «Hie Hut is (limulmil. nor mid «ho lie lui-oil io a uil.mr t hut 1« iinbriomuig

\ti« hive ni ov i reel from the funey for Hit'

«irctiiel» innot» skirt, which oitro came M iil.ui-lt mar to litHiiiiimg nu obsession, mil no»» we nie ktiiuding on linn fornida .ton« vi Im It tttn hld wild 11 it gnxl for (Oin. orl It is tnu »vc still shot» our prcdilu*. um fen lulu si nts but thev ure ml willi

IIOIC limpie uiopoiliini«, and so skilful Ina

tin (liosiinktrs' uri btioiuo that the iir

rangement of pleats anti folds ivliith seem to accentuate the narrowness of the jupe itself ore in renht) the points which give fuller pla) to ones movements I he pnnncllcd back, which is teen on most of the gowns madt of fair!) substantial tc\ lures is nu mitinee of tin» On the mu jority of snell irocks it would seem Hint the panel is stitched from waist to lum, whereas it is muni) well pressed into *cam like lines, which Jiang with unbroken setcnl), but ctel) now and then when the werner is tempted to take n longer step than usual

the canning!) hidden extra width comes into etidence

Although on Saturday the weather was narin enough foi summer frocks, with nil the details that stand for comfort in real!) liol weather, at the same time it was tin ideal da) for the ever-popular coat and skirt, which still retains the affection of nil women 'Uns siason the short, jmintt coat with Hie waisteline «el two or three

inches abate its normal position, iii worn with a good deni of distinction b) hundreds of women and girl» mid, as it is cuesfconi

nil lanetics o£ materia!, there is little OK, no monolon) These fanciful coats ure m Hie majont) of casts made on magiar or kimono lines Thus, the diooping shoulder effect gained b) the elimination of shoulder .ind linn hole seam is just as desirable on tailor mode costumes as it u on the more dresst toilettes Those to it horn the severe

coat and skirt, cul on the lines genenll) nxceptcd as "tailor made" appeal* aho had a fair showing, and although perhaps thei were oiilnumbei-ed by the more fntolotis i tilts, there is something i cr) attractitt in the perftctrline effect of the genuine tailor finish. Tw 6 of the most striiang instances of the art of the tador of to-dni was shown b) a «tateli matron and her tall daughter, lxrth of whom wore the fashionable com binition of black and white in the ease of Hie elder lad), a narro« black and unite stnpcd shantung was chosen and in et er) detail the toilette wa» perfect ner daughter also it ore a black and w bite stripe, but instead of silk Hie material was n line tweed, and n smart touch of cherri eoloui lins introduced in the rovers and cuffs of

her high-rousted magiar coat, with it» crosscut bisque and loose!) hanging sleeves The feature of both these co»

turnes was the impression that the) gate of being the work of expert tailor*, and, as such. Hie) stood apart from the more ordi

nar) effort of Hie dressmaker Striped matonals were first in fatour, and but willi few exception», thei litre useel in conjunc-

tion with either plain cloth or Bilk Tor tnmming applied in the form of bands pipings, or folds the diagonal striped effect predominated, and, in spite of Hu frequent rccurronc- of th" notion it did not lose lit repetition A striking gow n illustrntiioof the siicccss of tlie combination of lund and plain mitennl bid nn under dres« of indigo blue and white stuped silk nell stripe being quite nn inch wide Tin* was pnrtialli cot creel bt n plain dirk blue ol cr di ess of soft material »lit up at each »ide in onler to »IK ti the underneath striped foundation Tile bodice ins of Hie pinn blue, cut on jiumt mag)ir lints with facing» of the it de stnpe and a white hat, with touche« of blue leitet and white wheat ear* »et off a rostnme that wa« wonder ililli smart _Yoiu the written description

[«nell a gonn mat sound bunrre for it is difficult to come) bl pen the impression piton b) the natural gnee of the wearer It i* quite probable that onlt one woman in SOO could hue worn those ten widi stnpes without being remarkible in the sense that I» objected to bl eton tiell-dresseel liomin , înoUicr wondi-füllt «leeessftil striped gown also owed it» distinction to the ele ginee of the wearer It was entire!) of violet and black stnped ninon but in this ei«e the line» were fairh narrow The

gown was of tin J^mpire type, with a high mist hue and the flowing draperies of Hie soft film) texture retcaled a violet mtin undcr-drcf» Quite in keeping willi the picture effect ivis the tall crowned blitk tan-el hit massed at one side, with soft!) filling ostrich plume«

Her .sccllen'. Lnd) Denman wore n beautiful gown which nl»o might lie de senbed a« a piiture to litte The testnre of the gown itself wa« fine white («prit net

with a close li set pin spot pattern But Hie bemtt of the coutume wis in the exquisite "inhroidcn that was worktd on to the nit it«If Tin» in* of the hntt Indian innen, and a broad band of it fonned n handsome foot 1 onler to the short »kirt \ me of fini brodire anglaise, bonlencl on I either side bl a narrower repetition of the

lout lmnler broke tie »kirt at the I neis nu! the »quire-cut follarle «s nul« in» out

linn! with the broderie \iigli »i A further illuminent to the I «oil ne- w is a li uni of «outaclied embroiden, contentious! in ile

sign, tiorknl on tin net «hub e iii mini urn*» the front to the shoulder» and tins continued down the baik ot the ilbott

length sleeves A qimnt touch ivis given In emphasising the high waist line li) a fold of bhek \elrct lier Excellency wore ii lint of tin shits» v ariel» in black tigel

with a wreath of ro«es in dull faded tones of pink Lad» I tiller s elegant gown v» is of trope de clune in a tinder shade of willow green Bands of katiti embroidered with a conventional design in selfcilourcd and flight!« lighter toned silks were introduced as panels on the al irt and is bodice and sleeve trimming Hie bodice liad a pointed yoke of fine Mulmes lace and a touch of colour was CIVCII at the waist by a folded belt and io«ette of dull unithvst silk llic*1 lint norn In bel lad)ship was of burnt chip lund with -imothvst silk and a narrow piping of cirisc 1 ho trimming, n Inch »vas set to oin side consistid of clusters of white and mauve blue Y pretty, simple frock of wlnti silk foulard close!} covcied bj. i scroll pittein in minne was worn b) Miss Quirl Hie collnrles« neck »»as turned bick b» a deep ireim Inie collar mid her blick bat »ras trimmed willi a long bhek willow plume Miss Phipp« nore i plntnl) eut frock of delphinium blue -Silk min touche« of black velvet at the waist and neck Ilei tall ciow-ned black hit ivis caught at the bick nilli u cluster of black feathers Alisa A inev wore a cream tailor undi coït and skirt and black hit with emerald green nings

J ho fane} for pinn httliscoilarloaa frocks made quite «hort m the «kirt ind with no othei tiiinnnngs than tint afforded b» rows of buttons 01 Hut bow« has extended even to influencing tin '»«liions, for rice eow-no An a mitter of fget Hie fisluon for atiidied sunphcitv grows dav bv da) ut such a rate that one wonders what tin re- sult will be winn the pendulum awing« the other w-i» One feature of the present lnoilcH u that the« tencit the ipprceia'ion of qualité \s most of us only «ant n little of white«er our gowns are tnmmed itith «te are pirticul-ir about ln«mg it of the best of its kind ind that point »vis Firticulirl« noticeable on "5iturilny lim n«h crochet lace w is well in e»idence and touches of genuine and beautiful old lund worked embroideries were introduced under the ninon o»erdrcs.«es which continue to hold their own on the more elaborate type, of gowns As one tualvses the fashions a« thev appealed on Saturday BO doe« it be- come more and more apparent how little our ideas on the subject have changed huicc last Caulfield Cup YYe still cling to the subtle suggestions of rich material and em broideries glinting through tin line meshes of semi transpirent texture« W e con find no bittir expression of the smart vet u-e ful costume winch l8 indispenslblc to most of us than in the coat and «lort AVo con ttinii to admire the straight up -ind down silhouette and m the fice of all th a fntbfulne«8 it is difficult to si» where nil tint which strikes the critic as mw mid origma) comes in 1 irst of ill there is the «ash or it« vquiv-i

lent nithotit winch few of Hu? jirettic«t frocks appeared on Siturdav Hut not in one instance »ras the new nash an» thing like the one to ii Inch we ire tuo«t .leiustomed Instead of vide butterfl« boles, spreatl across the n list the correct ni) to arrange the ??»tin or velvet ribbon m to mike a flat shppe--hko bow ind which is placed on end -o tint the loops iseend from tho high naist lim» to In tween the «boulders Another »irietv shows no loops at -ill, onlv t»»o long end« set into the vvai»t belt An other notion can bardi» be described ns n sa«h, ind vet the relationship is prettv dose \t ill events Hu detail na« notnod on the ni »vest and smartest irock« eepeu «II» those of voile or ninon A wide w dib of the material of the gowii itsilf i« ea«cd into the luck of the «aistbind into a space about Oin wide Tin« width »»Inch is allowed to hnng loose!» o»ir the »kirt itself, is g-ithered into a narrow bind it Hie hem The whole i« edged with narrow lice or trunining The effect i< some»»hit like that of the original hobble skirt lint instead of the kicking strip being fixeel down to the skirt it hings ip-irt just a« n sash doe« OIK of the most clnmnng froek« seen on saturdav »ns pnmirQ» of blush ros«* film with r bbon band« and bows of a «hglitl» (Inker sliiili lim iiiulirdrrss wn veiled willi nor« ninon, inset with tin» pulling« of munn mil quilling« of ívorv Alalinos lict Hie bodnx was undi w ith n helm of ninon nil hex mid Hie luck of the sk rt »vis dripul with a width of ninon caught into a mrrow band edged w ith lice 1 his d lint» toilette wa« 6nished Avitli i pink hat, massed with blush roses and lineil with »mix blue stnw Sever ii other instinct« of this pnrtmilar fonn of snsh vu re noticed ind eieli time the squire giuliuid mil wa.« a feilure Su-aigi lo si» thi girdle« eil »»bun »»e line «ten so man« in the shops wis no1 iniiili ju eu dcnci Pi rlniis it will lonu later on

It was the lui« windi supplied the note of eolour to the gencnl scheine of dn sing Mn«t of the frocks »»ore of nuilril tone« uich is platinum or mole gri «, putty colour

and cream, together with dull blues or grey ish green» but the hats were gorgeous with their wealth of flowers or masts of »oftlv falling lancer plumes No one who lool ed at tilt crowded grandstand could fill to notice tht ntimbtr of lincor plcuren e or willow plumes (the terms art identical) which idoitied Hit roivs upon ron«, of hat» I hen if one tinned to the lawn there weit nguiu hundred« alni hundreds of the e\ qmsite mid cost!) plumes Hit long frond» of winch lit in soft inns.s on the wide bnm«, or on the li gh irown« I tan prellt well tell what nut one of mt friends paul foi their huts lit counting Hit number of their fcathi r» said n girl to lier cotnpHuon I «anted them so bulli that I pi ted them at iieirlt cien »hop rjiti were ful too e\peii«iic for nu but J tin estimnte furls torrettl) Hie price of nn) I »tt \ou will line n lum tiint then «aid the other for I inn see no Hunt, but feithei»! ind I can hiidh imagine theit witt so man) i «inches in the wolli) It speiks toliimc* for the prosperjlt of Altlbouuii that thou »mds of pounds worlli ot feathers alone wen sol I in lln «hop*during tilt list month or so Jtn pound* sp nt m tin« tin) docs not t,o ten fal uni if tint pnte w is tal en ns an nungi one for et cr) plumed lint the total amount so spent would be rntlier a« tonitJniit, There titre black nhill and gret hat* with cluster* of coronation blue leather» or white ceiise gret (.reen or in f ict mi one or two eombincd tints that the mid fine) can iningint Hit richness of colour m the »oft pliimnt,e is exquisite for Hit mo 11 i id tone« take on a subdued bloom which I» fascinating in the cstrtinc One con onlt fear that m spite of the t_«tlint«a of the feathered hats tlict will become ettiaie to the genenl ¡Next to Hie beautiful effect of the feathers caine Hie ¡lotur* which are Hu» tear as beautiful as art can make them Kosos roses all the tint i« a fair description of hats that were other than feather tnmined although nott md then one realised thit «martness wa« to be found in cletorlt poised ttmgs or (pulls In Hie matter of shape there was no hard and fa«t rule followed Shad) brims nnd flat crowns i led with sugar loaf crow ns and small curl) bnuis which titre nom right otcr the face «o as to almost hide the eics Here and there one taint nero** the girl to whom that iib cb is uncommon appeals more than that which is becoming and girli-h The fear of looking like nii)ont

else is an obsesión with »onie women and tin* must be the reason tint justifies the existence of some of the milliner) freaks ont conic H across from time to tnni There is plentt of time between now and Cup Dav for a nut dctelopnie-t altogether in hit* though in which wa) it mat make it«elf felt l« hard to sa)

Jn the«e data of short skirts footnear is a dist net and important item of the ward robe I 11 ar or tit o ngo no one ti oui 1 hate dreamed of wearing.unithing but black hosten and neat blacfieslioe« fodat lill tho«c linm notions bate flown, nnd the fan ciful shoe such ns would do for the ballroom is just as often norn in the »trctt 1 he new ist «hoc is cut nita) until almost the whole of the foot is left «.posed in its délit ite sill eovenng Indeed on «"ituvdaj one toil loo! ed ns if she like frilbt preferred to KO barefooted for herc"ti_mc!j low-cut shots were of the palest pink and as her stock ing» matched Hiern exattl) one had to lool twin to tee if she was not nu nu picds

Another notion of the moment is the wear ing of »hoe* of one colour and ho«ien of mother while Hie material of which shoe* are made i« i* varied n» possible \ eli el satin ribbon and ettn lace are all pre» e ! into tin »irtite of making footwear tor the fashionable jsirl of tlie bom and tht f ict that then is nothing like leather d >e* not impre s her in the ten least One cine* not look for that ulm It i» utihtamn at ran

time

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